The annual eight-night Southern Safari cruise aboard True North, January 13-21, 2018, costs from $8895 a person. True North Adventure Cruises also offers Kimberley and Australian coastal itineraries and sailings to Papua New Guinea and West Papua, including the 10-night Raja Ampat Explorer ex Darwin. More: (08) 9192 1829; truenorth.com.au. part, but now pull on a mask, wet suit and weight belt, clamp a regulator in my mouth and step down the ladder. I feel the cage rattle as the shark shoots past, but, preoccupied with trying to breathe normally and avoid floating off the floor of the cage, I don’t get more than a flash.
Back on deck, I have a much better view of another shark (three in all are sighted) speeding along the starboard side, its great head all but breaking the surface. The crew estimates it’s more than 4m long.
There are also quieter, less artificial encounters with nature. One of our best is on Pearson Island, where there are sea-lions on the foreshore, and curious rock wallabies amid the weathered orange-lichened granite outcrops. We hike for 90 minutes to the peak, something we are told only a few dozen visitors do each year.
Our final day opens at Streaky Bay, at the western side of the peninsula, where volunteers run a National Trust museum, a wonderful attic of local history with everything from a linotype printing machine to an iron lung. Some of us visit the museum, others go crabbing.
Then we have a final fishing session in driving rain. Peter, our ace fisherman, says he’s “as wet as a shag” and declares he hasn’t caught even a King George whiting. “But I’ve caught enough. I’m happy with what I’ve got.” A sentiment I must echo, in every way.
Michael Kerr was a guest of True North Adventure Cruises.
TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP