Long live the leek

DON’T UNDERESTIMATE THIS SOFT, SWEET, COMFORTING VEGETABLE

If you’re a person who automatically translates “leek” to “onion” in any recipe you come across, you’re missing out. Yes, the leek is widely interchangeable with its superstar allium relative, the onion, but this slender, green-tipped vegetable doesn’t deserve the dismissive treatment it receives from many home cooks.

For starters, its softer, sweeter flavour won’t overwhelm your dish as readily as onion may, instead, singing in unison with other, mild, comforting flavours in a creamy chicken soup or buttery tart.

It’s also the looker in the family. An insipid onion cannot compete with its variegated hues.

Plus, if you’ve tried chopping onion with goggles on, under water, or with a matchstick in your mouth (it’s a real hack), and still get streams of mascara running down your cheeks, a leek is less likely to trigger waterworks than its juicy, inconsiderate cousin.

The only downside, perhaps, is that you can’t buy a leek sack on special and leave it at the back of the pantry for weeks.

However, with autumnal fare the perfect stage for leek’s subtle performance, you’ll surely find sufficient inspiration to use up a whole bunch within its two-week fridge life. Here are some recipes to get you started.