KERALAN BLACK PEPPER CHICKEN

From The Nutmeg Trail

Serves 4 Ingredients

8 skinless, bone-in chicken

thighs

Juice of ½ a lemon

½ tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp fine sea salt

1 tsp fennel seeds

2 tbsp black peppercorns 2 tbsp coconut or neutral

oil

3 large onions, finely sliced

lengthways

5 garlic cloves, minced 6cm ginger, peeled and

minced (2 tbsp)

1-2 green chillies, slit

lengthways (optional)

1 tsp garam masala

1 tbsp coconut vinegar or

other vinegar Buttered basmati rice, wilted greens and a tangysweet Indian chutney, to serve (optional)

Too often a bit part player, peppercorns here shine as the star performer. Used in quantity, they bring a bold piquancy that hints at an early Asian heat before chillies were brought to the continent. This is balanced by their fragrance as well as by a tangle of sweet, caramelised onions. Use tellicherry peppercorns if you can as they are especially grassy and bright.

Pepper is native to the steamy, knotted jungles of the Indian Ghats, thriving in the cycles of heavy monsoon rain and sultry heat. Walk through rural areas during harvest and you will have to weave around patches of peppercorns left out to dry in the hot sun.

Method

Turn the chicken thighs in the lemon juice, turmeric, salt and a few grinds of black pepper (we are layering the pepper flavour; the full hit comes later). Set aside to marinate while you proceed.

Tip the fennel seeds and peppercorns into a dry pan and heat until they are toasty and aromatic. Use a pestle and mortar to crush them coarsely.

Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat, add the oil and fry the onion slices with a pinch of salt until they soften, then turn golden. Add the garlic, ginger and green chillies and stir-fry for another couple of minutes. Stir in the garam masala.

Add the chicken to the pan along with any marinade and the vinegar. Cover, turn down the heat and leave to simmer for 15 minutes. The chicken will release liquid as it cooks.

Remove the lid and turn up the heat. Add the crushed peppercorns and fennel seeds. Stir-fry until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is dry and caramelised. Taste for seasoning. Set aside to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Serve with buttered basmati rice, wilted greens and a tangy-sweet Indian chutney, if you like.

Images and text from The Nutmeg Trail by Eleanor Ford: Murdoch Books, $50, photography by Ola O. Smit