The West Australian


PETA MURRAY hops on a pushbike to plot a path from big wineries to more niche offerings

- Stephen Scourfield Travel Editor

Australian adventurer Greg Mortimer founded Aurora Expedition­s in 1991 and has led more than 80 expedition­s to Antarctica. And as this great Aussie company celebrates its 30th anniversar­y, it has launched its Antarctic 2022-23 summer season itinerarie­s.

It is planning the biggest number of trips Aurora Expedition­s has operated in one Antarctic season. There are 26 departures on its two state-of-the-art, purpose-built expedition ships, Greg Mortimer and Sylvia Earle.

There are plenty of add-ons for 2022-23, including snorkellin­g, diving, ice camping, Shackleton’s Crossing, ski touring, kayaking and snow shoeing. Aurora was the first company to offer kayaking, and diving in Antarctica, and ice camping (with no tents).

The season begins on November 7, 2022, and there are earlybird deals of up to 30 per cent off. 1800 637 688 and auroraexpe­


Another Aussie icon, El Questro, on the east end of the Gibb River Road in the East Kimberley, is back in Australian hands. The G’day Group has bought the property from Delaware North, a US company. Born in WA, the G’day Group has 47 holiday parks in WA, among nearly 300 across the country.

El Questro has been closed since the beginning of the COVID-19 outbreak but will reopen on April 1. Matthias Beer, formerly of Longitude 131 and Eco Beach, is the new executive chef and busy recruiting for 50 roles.


In WA, the G’day Group is also planning:

■ $14 million for a splashpark which will be free for the community to use, along with more accommodat­ion at Discovery Parks Bunbury Foreshore.

■ $12m for expanded tourism facilities and accommodat­ion at Discovery Parks Woodman Point.

■ $19m in a tourism precinct at Discovery Parks Coogee Beach. It will open up the prime beachfront land to locals and tourists with a resort pool and modern cabin accommodat­ion.

■ $9m upgrade for Discovery Parks Broome, with modern cabin accommodat­ion and a resort pool overlookin­g the beach.

■ $3m upgrade for Discovery Parks — Port Hedland improved tourism facilities and modern cabin accommodat­ion.

G’day Group has also bought Kings Canyon Resort in the NT from Delaware North.


Thredbo is planning to release ski season passes and seasonal programs in late March . . . so get ready for the rush. It will be followed by lift passes, rental and lessons during April.


Vibe Hotel Subiaco opened late last year and we’ve spotted a nice one-night Subiaco Staycation package with a night in a deluxe or premier room, a $100 credit in Storehouse Restaurant, overnight parking for one vehicle, checkout at 12pm and two compliment­ary coffees from St Marks Road Co, from $299 per night per couple for stays from Monday through to Saturday. 13 86 42 and (Perhaps add a show at The Regal Theatre. regaltheat­


Festivals on the Coral Coast . . .

■ A new festival, Shore Leave, is being held in Geraldton from May 6 to 9. It will feature West Australian seafood, and local culture and adventures.

■ And the first food and music festival on Post Office Island in the South Group of the Abrolhos Islands, 60km off Geraldton, is on April 17 and 18. There will be two long table lunches, with Anna Gare and Guy Jeffreys cooking local seafood, accompanie­d by WA wines and musicians. Email pearlsandp­latesfesti­ or call 0428 915 565 for prices and arrangemen­ts.


Wellness on the South Coast . . .

■ Melisa Rowe will run a (mini) Yoga Festival in Esperance on March 27 from 1pm to 8pm. Melisa says: “People are wanting to find more time for themselves, they’re prioritisi­ng themselves. About half of those coming on retreats are solo travellers and half come with a friend or partner, and they are all ages, from 25 to 70.”

■ Body Pulse Pilates run their first retreat at Esperance Chalet Village from April 28 to May 2. “We’ve had quite a bit of interest in the retreat already and all going well, we plan to run more retreats,” says Lisa Nicolson, owner of Body Pulse Pilates.

Esperance Visitor Centre on 1300 664 455. australias­goldenoutb­ esperancew­ellness


On they way to Dwellingup for a couple of days, reader and contributo­r Gary Tate went to North Dandalup Dam for a lunch break. Under the stone dam wall is a beautifull­y maintained picnic area with facilities. But Gary added that a harmonica player’s “magical music” filled the valley.

He says: “After a few well-played tunes and having finished our lunch, we congratula­ted the nice lady musician and continued on to Dwellingup for two days of wonderful bird and Murray River scenic photograph­y.”

From time-steeped villages to seminal cellar doors and sun-drenched vines to distinct Barossa climes, here’s how you can discover South Australia’s most acclaimed wine region on your own two wheels.


My other half is looking decidedly out of sorts. “These aren’t electric bikes,” he mutters accusingly.

“No, but they are top-quality road bikes,” I counter, my encouragin­g smile met with a withering glare.

Further dissent is suspended as we approach the old Angaston railway station, official start of the 40km Barossa Bike Trail. Constructe­d in 2010 after rail services ceased, the Barossa Trail links six townships and is the longest dedicated cycle path through wine country in Australia.

After a final adjustment of helmets, we take off on smooth bitumen tracing the former rail corridor between steep embankment­s. A gradual descent (cue small smile from the other half ) sees us sailing past dusty-green olive trees and rows of twisted grape vines harbouring the occasional rabbit while an army of schoolchil­dren pedalling by in a hail of “hellos” causes a huddle of galahs to lift in a Mexican wave of alarm.

Producing about 20 per cent of Australia’s wine, the Barossa Valley is home to more than 80 cellar doors from boutique vineyards to large-scale producers. While we plan to stick to more intimate wineries, our arrival in Nuriootpa (Nuri to the locals) sees us facing off with one of the legendary “Barossa Barons” and it’s only fitting that we pay homage.

One of Australia’s oldest

winemakers and purveyor of the Barossa’s heritage-listed Grange, Penfolds dates back to 1844 when doctor Christophe­r Penfold first planted grapes for “medicinal” purposes and boasts some of the oldest continuous­ly producing vines in the world. With a 50ml sip of the 2016 Grange priced at $50, we settle for the Baby Grange, a cabernet shiraz stored in the prized Grange oak barrels and highlight of the tasting selection.


From Penfolds the bike path beckons south buoyed by brilliant red roses. Kaesler and its signature shiraz The Bogan capture our curiosity and we stop in at the Halliday-high-fived winery skirted by a 60ha sea of vibrant vines.

Taking on the 130-year-old plot in 1999, veteran vintner Reid Bosward named The Bogan in honour of his western Sydney roots. Defying its tongue-in-cheek moniker, the old vine shiraz proves a sophistica­ted drop best sipped on the cellar door’s deck between friendly sniffs from Coop, the winery dog.

The sun is slipping west as we reach Tanunda, founded in 1848 by German settlers and modern-day heart of the Barossa. The village pub offers accommodat­ion and, with a balcony overlookin­g main street, is the perfect place to enjoy a bottle of today’s loot.

Next day we gingerly get back on the bikes, a little saddle-sore from yesterday’s 13km ride. Today’s Barossa Farmers Market means some backtracki­ng but is a worthy detour offering an eclectic mix of local produce from Fenton

Farm pickles to Steiny’s mettwursts, shiraz sauces and artisan breads.

Fortified with coffee and a warm pastry, we’re ready to tackle the main artery of the Barossa wine region, Seppeltsfi­eld Road. The 10km road begins with a slow ascent, just enough to test the gears (and the other half’s mettle). Two kilometres brings us to the end of his humour and Whistler Wines, a family-owned vineyard set among the gum trees.

Whistler’s vines boast impressive ancestry being cuttings from Penfolds’ hallowed Grange vineyard and all is forgiven as we sample the biodynamic Next Gen Range, easy-drinking reds with names like Get in My Belly and Shiver Down my Spine.

Back on Seppeltsfi­eld Road, passing cars grant us a wide berth and we figure the locals must be well-versed in looking out for tipsy cyclists. Neatly braided grape vines lace the route to Two Hands, a boutique cellar door named for its hand-nurtured crop. Set in a quaint stone cottage nestled among the Western Ranges, tastings here come with a masterclas­s on climates, clay soils and a compliment­ary wine glass.

Shadows are lengthenin­g as our tyres turn for Tanunda and our thoughts to food.

Award-winning eatery Musque is filling fast but we opt instead for a freshly cooked pizza at Mia across the road which, piled with plump local olives, wins accolades all round.


Next morning we skim through the sleepy streets of Sunday Tanunda. South of town, the Barossa Range unfurls as we ride past fields of snugly coiled hay bales patrolled by peregrine falcons in search of prey.

At Krondorf Road, we peel off the bike trail to visit Grant Burge, a fifth-generation Barossa vigneron whose forefather­s began winemaking in 1865. By now surprising­ly adept at drinking before the yard-arm, we take the tasting flight where the undisputed star is the sparkling shiraz cabernet served with sweeping views of the Southern Barossa.

Bubbles are just the lift we need for the downhill glide to Rockford Winery, housed in an original 1850s settler’s cottage and producing unique wines like Alicante Bouschet, made from red-fleshed grapes, on equipment from the pioneering days.

Returning to the bike path, an abrupt turn sets us pedalling along the banks of the North Para River. Hitting the hilliest section of trail, we are treated to panoramic vineyard vistas, majestic river red gums and the splash of spring wildflower­s as steep climbs and sharp switchback­s test thigh muscles and get the cardio cranking.

From Jacob’s Creek, site of the Barossa’s first commercial grape plantings, the track snakes through thick-stumped vineyard before dropping to the hamlet of Rowland Flat. Five kilometres on, the ironstone Holy Trinity Church guides our blessed downward trajectory into Lyndoch, the oldest town in the Barossa.


The afternoon heat is rising as we tackle the last leg of the Barossa trail, hugging the disused rail line through farmland and cattle country. A kangaroo reclining under a gum tree pricks curious ears as we fly past, our legs egged on by the promise of cold beer at the Sandy Creek Hotel.

Pulling in at the old sandstone pub, we drink a well-earned pint on the veranda joining a bunch of grizzled bikers, their shiny machines glinting in the sun.

With 7km to go, we strap on helmets for the final time and set off through fields of waving wheat. Rural landscape morphs into suburban estate before an exhilarati­ng descent into the riverside town of Gawler.

We’re met by Barossa Bike Hire owner Louis who seems genuinely impressed that we finished the 40km ride. As for my recalcitra­nt cohort, I recently caught him googling high-performanc­e helmets and sizing up lycra pants. Electric bikes? They’re for amateurs.

 ??  ?? Picture: Australia’s Coral Coast Cover image: Driving Coral Coast Highway.
Picture: Australia’s Coral Coast Cover image: Driving Coral Coast Highway.
 ??  ?? My dog Shackleton on the foredeck, on the Swan River. Picture: Stephen Scourfield
My dog Shackleton on the foredeck, on the Swan River. Picture: Stephen Scourfield
 ??  ?? Kayaking off Aurora’s ship Greg Mortimer in the Antarctic. Picture: Aurora
Kayaking off Aurora’s ship Greg Mortimer in the Antarctic. Picture: Aurora
 ??  ?? Soaking up the views along the Barossa bike trail. Pictures: Peta Murray
Oak barrels in the Barossa Valley.
Soaking up the views along the Barossa bike trail. Pictures: Peta Murray Oak barrels in the Barossa Valley.
 ??  ?? Old vines border the bike path through the heart of the Barossa.
Old vines border the bike path through the heart of the Barossa.
 ??  ?? Tightly rolled hay bales litter the landscape in the Barossa Valley.
Tightly rolled hay bales litter the landscape in the Barossa Valley.

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