Up in Smoke

Experience the thrill of the grill at Footscray’s new American barbecue place. By Kelly Eng

We’re starting with dessert because you might not get the insider tip that one of the waitstaff gave us. While all three desserts on Up in Smoke’s menu sound desirable, we were told – in a Highlander “There can be only one!” fashion – that the banana cream pie was non-negotiable. Now we know why: with its sturdy biscuit-crumb base, velvety banana-and-caramel filling and cream-dab crown, it’s sensational. Sweet without being cloying, every billowing mouthful will make you want to shout ‘God bless America!’

Shayne Mccallum, owner of 8bit burger joint in Footscray and the CBD, opened Up in Smoke in January this year. As unlikely a location for an American barbecue restaurant as Footscray might seem, on a Sunday night, the joint’s going gangbusters. Service is on the ball and staff quickly spot newcomers, ushering them to seats in the front beer garden or main dining area. There’s nothing slap-your-thigh-yee-har about the interior of this short, dark and handsome venue; more moody industrial, it has floor-to-ceiling windows, black brick walls, concrete tables and copper piping.

It’s all about the barbecue – specifically a $20,000 barbecue that sits like a jewel behind a glass window. Burgers, tacos, salads, sandwiches and tasty snackettes animate the menu, and when the clock hits 6pm, the smoked meats come out to play.

‘The Big Tray’ (only available at dinner) comes with three different meats: a happy pile of sweet pulled pork, a pleasingly hefty jalapeno-and-cheddar sausage and shimmering beef brisket slices with a hint of smoke and a nice layer of fat. While the meat is undeniably tender and flavoursome, it’s perhaps not quite as smoky or melt-in-yourmouth as you might anticipate.

Banana cream pie is non-negotiable

plenty of pickled Twovegetables (cucumber, cauliflower, dinner-roll-sizedcarrots)offset the fleshfest, and you get to choose two side: the chips are crisp fluffy and coated in a moreish barbecue spice mix while an outstanding sweetshaved fennel green apple and dill salad milkspartners perfectly with the pulled pork the potato bunsskins are the only disappointment loaded andwith bacon cream cheese sour cream and no-brainerschives, whatof yum should were have slightly been undercooked.For beverages, there are ten on rotatingtap a predominantly boutiqueAustralian wine Australianlist and the classic beersdrink of the

American South, bourbon.