Time Out (Melbourne)

The Star Hotel

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Once the clubbiest pub in the south, the Star now shines as a slick modern alehouse. By Fred Siggins

A few years back, Star Bar was known as one of the premier club destinatio­ns of the south side. Late on a Saturday night, you could see AFL royalty stumbling up to the bar to order wet pussy shots from buxom bartenders wearing crop-tops, branded trucker hats and bottle openers tucked into sweatbands. But after a major renovation last year, the Star Hotel has risen anew as a bright modern pub that’s more exposed brick and indoor plants than smoke machines and lasers. While the façade has remained plain grey plaster, the interior has had a complete overhaul. The ceiling of the front bar has been knocked out to create a two-storey atrium, complete with a green wall of living plants and two huge potted palm trees reaching up into the second floor. Large windows, once blacked out to hide the shenanigan­s within, now bathe the room in natural light during the day, and the red brick walls are splashed with colourful murals. The interior design by the Reeb Group follows the aesthetic of “funky modern pub” seen in recent renovation­s like the Terminus (Abbotsford), the Bridge, the Prahran and St Hotel. Attention has also been given to accessibil­ity; there is now a lift up to the rooftop courtyard.

The interior has had a complete overhaul

On offer behind the bar is a typical rotation of easy drinkers, but they’ve got a big copper tank of unpasteuri­sed Carlton suspended over the bar (dripping icy condensati­on on unsuspecti­ng heads), a much tastier drop than the de-bugged regular stuff. There’s also Mountain Goat’s Hightail Ale Nitro, their English-style red ale charged on the tap with NO2 (like Guinness) for an ultra-creamy head. Menu fare is standard but the pork belly sliders are a good deal at three for $15, well balanced with pumpkin puree and fresh Thai basil and Vietnamese mint.

On a Thursday arvo, a friendly punter might greet you with a hearty handshake before the staff have a chance to say hi. It’s nice to see that eccentric folks like this are well looked after here – they’re an important part of the fabric of Melbourne’s pubs, and too often get swept away with the crumbled plaster when the old boozers get a facelift. Despite the 5am licence, the Star is still working on building up the weekend trade, mostly closing before 3am these days. It’s still pretty bloody late for a pub, though. So if you’re in this part of town and in the mood to kick on, there’s a star still shining for you on Clarendon Street.

The Star Hotel 160 Clarendon St, South Melbourne 3205. 03 9682 6288. www.starhotels­outhmelbou­rne.com.au. Daily 11.30am-3am.

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