Long Chim

Fi­nally, Mel­bourne gets a taste of David Thomp­son’s rib­ald and rau­cous Thai food… and it was worth the wait.

Time Out (Melbourne) - - FOOD & DRINK - By Larissa Dubecki

the de­tail. Specif­i­cally, in the chicken larp. Try or­der­ing the head­line hot act at Long Chim and you’re guar­an­teed a look of wait­erly con­cern fol­lowed by an in­ter­ro­ga­tion about how much heat you can re­ally han­dle, quite pos­si­bly fol­lowed by an in­ter­ven­tion. But if you can stand the heat you should or­der the larp, be­cause it sums up so much of what is great about Long Chim. A lot of press around David Thomp­son’s street food can­teens – the dif­fu­sion la­bel to his high­fly­ing Bangkok restau­rant Nahm – has fo­cused on the chilli fac­tor, but it’s miss­ing the point to treat din­ner here as a culi­nary dare. Sure, the north­ern Thai larp is hot, but it’s re­ally a mas­ter­class in the sweet-salty-sour-spicy bal­anc­ing act of great Thai food: a roil­ing fried mass of shal­lots, gar­lic (even the skins), kaf­fir lime leaves, lemon­grass, nub­bles of chicken and herbs and plenty more, duk­ing it out in a fight to the flavour death. To have the fourth Long Chim land­ing in our midst – af­ter Sin­ga­pore, Syd­ney and Perth – is the lime juice to the pad Thai; the Sriracha to the fried school prawns. Long Chim revs the en­gine on Bangkok street food while rais­ing it ten by virtue of ex­cel­lent pro­duce (hello, Aus­tralian seafood). You need to or­der the beef rice noo­dles, wok-fried un­til they’re scream­ing for mercy, with a dark, sticky soy dress­ing and holy basil. There’s a bowl of what is es­sen­tially a whole pig (well, its ears, feet and belly) dis­tilled into a five-spice broth with a bou­quet that goes on un­til next Wed­nes­day. Get the mashed prawn curry. Its notes of ginger, galan­gal, shrimp paste and turmeric go to­gether with the co­conut milk base like Diana Ross and Barry Gibb. To drink, the wine list plays a strong hand in the aro­matic whites and lighter reds, although stub­bies of Chang beer ($10 each – no, we’re not in Phuket any­more, Toto) is the boon com­pan­ion. Long Chim isn’t a bar­gain, and most peo­ple will have that an­noy­ing friend who claims they can get a green curry/beef skew­ers/laksa for half the price in Rich­mond/el­stern­wick/carnegie. And good luck to them. For our part, we’re plain thrilled that Thomp­son’s rid­den shot­gun into Crown town. crown Mel­bourne, 8 White­man St, South­bank 3006. 03 8582 3082. www.crown­mel­bourne.com.au. Sun-thu noon-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm; Fri, Sat noon-2.30pm & 5.30-11pm.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.