Time Out (Melbourne)

The Elysian

- Jo Stewart

AT THEIR NEW dedicated whisky bar, Yao Wong and Kelvin Low are making it their life’s mission to hunt down the world’s rarest drams. Got a spare $600? A bottle of 32-year-old single cask Scotch from world-leading bottlers Adelphi can be yours. All the big names of whisky are present and accounted for but the real action and intrigue here comes from the independen­t bottlers. If you’re new to whisky, independen­t bottling is like cleanskin wine but way more prestigiou­s. They buy barrels of whisky directly from distilleri­es and then bottle (and sometimes blend) the whisky themselves under their own label. Some distilleri­es prefer to remain anonymous, so their Scotch is released without identifica­tion. Sitting up at the bar, we settle on a single malt aged for 18 years, distilled in the Scottish Highlands and bottled by the German brand Liquid Sun. It has subtle floral tones and a touch of smoke, and its mellow flavour makes it a great gateway whisky to try before moving onto something bolder. Next up, we try one that has been aged for 24 years in a sherry cask. The cocktail list is a modest mix of timeless tipples, like whisky highballs, alongside green-hued cocktails infused with matcha. We aren’t easily swayed by gimmicks but the ‘Espresslo’ Martini is a triumph. They make it with 12-yearold Glenfiddic­h and pantry staples condensed milk, instant coffee and Milo. It’s a minor miracle that it works, with the Milo and coffee providing a strong, sweet start, but the smooth whisky finish leaves you in no doubt you’re drinking a whisky cocktail, and a good one.

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