Paradise Alley

By midnight the bar thrums to Screamin’ Jay Hawkins

TUCKED IN AMONG the warehouses down Easey Street in Collingwood, Paradise Alley is well worth the venture off the main strip. At five on a Friday, Tom Waits weaves his spooky tales from the turntables on the bar. Two blokes play a quiet game in the otherwise empty poolroom. But once a few more people show up at Paradise Alley the music builds to match, the bar staff start pouring shots for regulars, and there’s a genuine neighbourhood feeling that’s all too rare. The space is lit by vintage lamps and adorned with plants; windows look back into the motorcycle workshop next door; and vintage furniture provides warmth and gravitas. It’s mostly a DIY job, built and fitted out by owner Laura Twomey (ex City Wine and French Saloon) and her handy mates and they’ve nailed it, with personality to spare. Behind the bar, Twomey is unrushed and attentive, playing old-school publican like a champion. The drinks list includes craft beers and plenty of wine, with sherry and port getting top billing, and rightly so. The short but carefully selected list of imports will expand as folks get used to the idea of fortifieds as an everyday drinker – these are a far cry from the flagons of cream sherry your Nan used to drink. Beers by bottle and can are more interesting than the tap offering – a Pinner Passion Fruit IPA tastes like a bitter, grown-up Passiona, and Barley Griffin pale ale is bright with juicy hops. There’s also Melbourne longnecks and Tooheys Old. Excellent cocktails include the Lucy Juice: blanco tequila shaken with grapefruit, two different amaros and freshly squeezed lime. The result is the kind of sweet-bitter-salty freshness that lets good tequila shine through. By the glass you can quaff a jammy Reed Alexia grenache from Barossa or a deep Chapter malbec from Heathcote that’s all sour watermelon. The bottle list is way cool too. Kick-ass bar food is provided by Little Latin Lucy and chef Renee Trudeau, formerly of Huxtable and Clever Polly’s. She knows the flavours of South America and proves it with authentic arepas, empanadas and tacos – we like the one piled with rich smoked duck balanced by the sweetness of pineapple salsa. Mini dagwood dogs are made with Meatsmith franks fried in cornmeal beer batter, then topped with sweet mayo sauce and crumbles of smoky bacon for an legitimately awesome version of the showground classic. By midnight the bar is thrumming to Screamin’ Jay Hawkins, but the space is big enough to accommodate the crowd and the ’tenders are still slinging drinks with a smile. The eponymous alley down the side is full of smokers playing darts, overlooked by a wall of huge graff murals. Sitting comfortably in the space neglected by both ironically hipster and overly serious bars, this alley is a welcoming oasis for all.