Red Spar­row Pizza

This slice of pizza ac­tion is good for the wal­let and the planet.

Time Out (Melbourne) - - FOOD AWARDS 2017 - By Larissa Dubecki

THIS YEAR’S CHEAP eats champ is brought to you by the let­ter V, as in, ve­gan. Red Spar­row Pizza is a meat-free zone, where wood-fired pizza comes with a clean con­science. That doesn’t mean they can’t be badass as hell. The sausage pizza is a cham­pion of mock meats with smoky faux-snag get­ting busy with jalapeños, red onion and ve­gan cheese. There’s a good pep­per­oni, too, with an au­then­tic San Marzano sugo and in­au­then­tic soy-based pep­per­oni. Owner and chef Michael Craig also plays to the other side of the ledger, with charry-based piz­zas not play­ing the imi­ta­tion game. The su­per­green pizza prac­ti­cally pho­to­syn­the­sises with its mix of zuc­chini, broc­col­ini, mi­cro­herbs and pepi­tas, saved from be­ing too sanc­ti­mo­nious by a righ­teously gar­licky spinach and kale pesto base. Mel­bourne’s first ever all-ve­gan pizze­ria is a com­plete charm­pot of a place, where the smil­ing staff evan­ge­lise the meat-free menu with the sin­cer­ity of Miss Uni­verse ex­plain­ing her plan for global peace. Red Spar­row has the recipe right, in­clud­ing ve­gan booze and a house­made Nutella (Notella, natch) hold­ing up the dessert end. 406 Smith St, Colling­wood 3066. 03 9417 1454. www.redspar­row­

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