Time Out (Melbourne)

Musashi Ramen & Izakaya Bar

- Sonia Nair

TWENTY-FOUR HOUR RAMEN restaurant Shujinko used to be the only option for partygoers hankering for the Japanese staple dish at ungodly hours, but not anymore. Enter Musashi Ramen, an after -hours noodle-soup purveyor on Russell Street near Chinatown. Customers fill up Musashi’s small confines in ebbs and flows; no one stays for long, but the restaurant is never empty – the bright signage draws you in, especially when your lizard brain is on a one-track mission for post-party fuel. Congenial chants of irrashaima­se! greet diners as soon as they step inside. The heady smell of peanut oil and chilli, the paper lanterns strung across the sloping roof and the backing soundtrack of Japanese boybands could almost trick your beer-soaked brain into believing you’re in Japan. The ramen menu is demarcated into three sections: signature pork tonkotsu, Tokyo-famous chicken shoyu and speciality broths. But if you’re worried you’re too far gone to eat ramen with any dignity, there are also four stock-standard Japanese rice dishes like teriyaki beef and stir-fried pork belly that’re are easier going for fumbling fingers.

Every element of your soup order can be customised, from the lightness and spiciness of the broth to the texture of the noodles. The certifiabl­y chilli-hot Red Dragon ramen even comes with the option of an ‘extra spicy’ broth for masochists. Instead of the thin, circular cuts of chashu (slow-braised pork belly) that typically feature in ramen, Musashi’s ramen are served with a singular slab of unctuous pork belly. Your braised egg might be slightly overcooked so don’t look for the spilling yolk, but every other element is meticulous­ly prepared – fine noodles with an al dente bite to them, black fungus and nori that absorbs the rich broth. Bamboo shoots are a side option, as are extra serves of everything else.

Don’t expect sumo sized serves here: the ramen are slightly smaller than average, which is appropriat­e for a meal that’s likely to be followed by bed. And just maybe that late-night bowl of noodles is the thing that turns your force five hangover into a manageable dustiness that two Panadol and a glass of water will cure. It’s certainly worth a shot.

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