Time Out (Sydney)

Burgerhood

This is how you do neighbourh­ood fast food.

- By Emily Lloyd-Tait

THERE IS A very big difference between commercial fast food and a place like Burgerhood. This neighbourh­ood burger shop on Darling Street in Balmain used to be one half of Wilhelmina’s small bar. But what was slightly awkward as a dual carriage bar works really well as a bar next door to a burger shop with an inclusive attitude and free soft serve.

That’s right: free, provided you eat in. Once you order your bun stuffers, fries (sweet potato or regular shoe string) and possibly a banana milkshake, you can grab a cone from the counter inside and self serve that soft serve. You can get a second cone – for you or a pal – for a gold coin donation that goes to a local primary school. If booze, not sugar, is your vice you’ll be pleased to hear they have a licence, so a Coors or a Sierra Nevada pale ale is yours for the asking.

After rigorous testing we reckon the hood burger is the way to go. It trumps the cheeseburg­er with the addition of lettuce, tomato, onion and hood sauce, which is zippy with pickles, like a snazzy tartare, but creamier, and also very good on chips. The Bloody Mary burger swaps pickles for horseradis­h, but is messier in the eating – the burgers here lean towards the saucier end of the spectrum and the bread won’t always make it to the final bite. Vegans and vegetarian­s get a salty spiced patty that’s stained pink with beetroot. You can get glutenfree buns, and also egg-free options, too. àShop 1/332, Darling St, Balmain 2041. 0475 333 032. www. burgerhood.com.au. Daily 11am-9pm.

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