Adventurer’s epic 1400km Reef voyage
UNDER constant threat of croc attack, a former army pilot has survived a 1400km journey in a homemade dugout canoe to test a historical theory relating to marooned shipwreck survivor James Morrill.
After more than 12 months painstakingly crafting a double outrigger canoe using a combination of traditional and modern techniques from a four tonne Norfolk Pine log, Michael Atkinson departed Cape Cleveland, south of Townsville, on July 3.
His planned destination: 1500km to the north through croc-infested waters and the notoriously dangerous waters of the Torres Strait.
Mr Atkinson aimed to prove Morrill could have avoided a predicament after washing ashore south of modern-day Townsville in 1846 by instead reaching a cache of lifesaving supplies on Booby Island.
He said the original castaway was taken in by the local Birri-gubba clan, who shared knowledge of bush foods, and he remained with them for several years.
With basic tools salvaged from his ship, the Peruvian, Mr Atkinson aimed to prove salvation in the form of a passing ship was possible if
Morrill was bold enough to strike out on an epic sail north.
“I want to see if I can escape Morrill’s predicament one year after he landed ashore,” he said.
“As a full-time sailor, he would have known about the emergency haven set up on Booby Island, Torres Strait, by Governor Bligh more than 20 years earlier.”
THE JOURNEY
Prepared to leave his wife and two young children behind, Mr Atkinson, or Outback Mike as he is known, set out with a whole lot of courage, fishing gear, smoked kangaroo, native ginger and some modern navigational aids, while dressed in 19th century sailor’s clothing.
He said there were a few funny looks at the boat ramp.
The trip was the fulfilment of a childhood dream but nothing could prepare the mariner for handling the tiny craft in big seas and the very real fear of capsize.
“I am a survival instructor; I have been eyeing off this whole idea since I was a kid,” he said.
“If I fell overboard, I would be gone, because the canoe sails faster than I could swim.”
Initially planning to skirt the western side of the outer reef in a bid to keep as far away from crocs as possible, a broken rudder and the fear of the canoe being swamped by big waves forced the adventurer closer to shore for the remote section of the voyage north of Port Douglas.
“The thing that kept me up at night was what I was going to do if the raft capsized, and I did come very close to capsizing, and it was a very crocy spot,” he said.
Stopping off each night on islands or the mainland, Mr Atkinson made good progress most days of about 40km a day.
“But some days I had to stay still because there was no wind, and other times when it was too windy,” he said.
THE THREAT
However, nothing brought the constant threat of saltwater crocodile attack home better than a mauling of two army men off the coast of Portland Road north of Lockhart River at the time Mr Atkinson was visiting recluse David Glasheen on nearby Restoration Island.
The biggest fear for the lone mariner was attack in the night from the maneating predator.
“I was sleeping under the canoe because there was a lack of paces to camp,” he said.
“I built a hatch to hide under and certainly there was plenty of crocs when I was setting up at night.
“I could have got stuck in there for days if a croc came and sat on top of the hatches.
“(But) I had some great conversations for days and (Mr Glasheen) filled me in on all the crocs in the area.”
North of Restoration Island, Mr Atkinson interviewed Billy’s Landing croc attack survivor Craig Dickmann about the off-duty ranger’s brush with death, which will form part of a documentary about the voyage, set to tour the east coast next year.
BUSH SURVIVAL
In keeping with what Morrill would have had at his disposal, Mr Atkinson survived the whole trip living on bush tucker and fish caught from the canoe while trailing a lure behind the craft.
Native honey, coconuts, berries, rock oysters and fish were staples that sustained the adventurer for 49 days at sea.
Disappointed with line fishing until north of Port Douglas, Mr Atkinson said
the catch had been a whole lot better when he visited the area 20 years ago.
And success with the spear greatly improved off the Cape York east coast.
“When I got past the population centres, the fishing got better,” he said.
BOOBY ISLAND
Unable to actually land on
Booby Island due to the lighthouse having asbestos issues, Mr Atkinson did see the Post Office Cave from the air after chartering a helicopter flight over the island.
The island marks the end of the Torres Strait marine hazard for westbound mariners and holds a significant place in Australia’s maritime history. After being set adrift in a long boat by Fletcher Christian and the crew of the HMS Bounty in 1789, Captain William Bligh passed by the island en route to Batavia, now known as Jakarta.
When Captain Bligh became governor of NSW, he petitioned the imperial government to form a depot at Booby Island for shipwrecked mariners, but it was not until 1824 that Bligh’s request was granted.
In 1822, a flag pole was erected marking the Post Office Cave so passing ships could pick up mail and deliver letters around the world.
BACK ON TERRA FIRMA
After 49 days at sea, an emotional Mr Atkinson landed on Thursday Island on August 21, but not before one final challenge.
“I had a real shock trying to get across the Strait to Thursday Island – the current was faster than my boat,” he said.
“It ended up being 50 days living off the land and the sea; when I arrived at Thursday Island I felt quite emotional.
“I was tearing up over the happiness over completing the trip, (and the joy of) eating food. The flavour blows your head off with eastern food with sugar and caffeine.
“I was so elated to compete the trip and I still am.”
Mr Atkinson will head home to Port Stephens in NSW to write a book and prepare a film that he plans to tour the east coast next year.