Hawaii :: The Source

Tracks - - Rapture -

Ob­vi­ous, but im­pos­si­ble to miss - for this list and for any­one truly into their surf­ing. And yet for decades many Aus­tralians did ex­actly that. We knew all about Hawaii but didn't ac­tu­ally go there. Too crowded. Too lo­calised. Too ex­pen­sive. Too darn big. Indo was al­ways the bet­ter op­tion. Cheaper, closer, rawer and with many more is­lands to get lost in and spread ev­ery­one out. In re­cent years there's been an awak­en­ing of sorts. Aussies are flock­ing to Hawaii in record num­bers, with more flights added to ac­com­mo­date the surge. That said, if you're suck­ing down ice-shaves at Waikiki or milk­ing the teets of a Honolulu busi­ness jun­ket it's un­likely you will have your life jolted. For keen surfers how­ever it's a real pos­si­bil­ity. Here's a few sug­ges­tions to en­cour­age your Hawai­ian awak­en­ing. 1. Ride the big­gest wave of your life. The nu­mer­i­cal size doesn't mat­ter. As long as it scares the be­je­sus out of you and you over­come the urge to freeze and ride that beast. You'll never for­get it and will re­turn home walk­ing a lit­tle taller. 2. Em­brace Aloha. Yes, it's been re­duced to a tourist cliché and a fat man's party shirt but the spirit of aloha – a multi-lay­ered phi­los­o­phy wrapped up in love and com­pas­sion – is so real it over­comes all of that. For some Hawai­ians it is a way of life. While the reper­cus­sions for be­ing a dick are no­to­ri­ously harsh on "the rock," the flip­side is that Aloha-in­clined Hawai­ians are warm and gra­cious by in­cli­na­tion. 3. Know your roots. You get a vivid sense that surf­ing is much big­ger than your lo­cal board rid­ers in Hawaii. That you are part of an ancient ocean cul­ture that stretches back hun­dreds of years. Check out the Bishop Mu­seum. Read Mich­ener's 40-mil­lion-year his­tory, Hawaii. Know the Hawai­ian story. 4. Solo the outer is­lands. Oahu's North Shore may get all the lime­light but Hawaii's other ma­jor is­lands all have se­ri­ously awe­some waves. Even more so than on Oahu you will be re­warded by trav­el­ling low-key.

THE BANZAI PIPE­LINE IN THE MOOD TO BE BIG HOL­LOW AND BIL­LOW­ING. PHOTO: JOLI

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