Upscale Living Magazine

Linyanti Ebony

Visiting part of the northern region of Botswana’s charm

- By Heléne Ramackers Photograph­s courtesy of African Bush Camps and by Heléne Ramackers

Interspers­ed between the Linyanti swamps and Chobe National Park, Chobe Enclave is home to staggering numbers of elephants, buffaloes and other animal species endemic to this area. Part of this northern region of Botswana’s charm is the coveted Linyanti Ebony, establishi­ng only four well-appointed tents, ensuring exclusivit­y, charisma and the ideal stomping ground for families and friends in a cavernous environmen­t.

Flying into the region with Mack Air in the Cessna Grand Caravan with Captain Keith Simmonds, it is evident that pachyderms love water as clusters of elephants gather in or around every single mud wallow or liquid source available in the vicinity. The drive from Saile airstrip to Linyanti Ebony takes us on a game drive, and along the way, we spot some zebras, a few grumpy buffaloes, a giraffe chewing on cud and the cutest vervet monkey playing hide-andseek between the green leaves of a tree.

We arrive later than anticipate­d, and after a refreshing drink, we are linked up with our guide Oratile Des Gotshajwan­g known as Des, for our late afternoon / early evening game drive. In the swamps, herds of elephants are having a marvelous time, drinking and cooling themselves with whatever means they can find.

Des stops the vehicle when a large number of elephants is making their way to the greenery to feed. Our attention is suddenly drawn to what can be perceived as twins, two small elephant calves, similar in size, both suckling from one cow. ‘Mom’ teaches the one the finer maneuvers of using his trunk, and he mimics every behavior she displays.

The sun has started setting and a warthog is sitting in the entrance to his burrow, sleepily looking at us. As we drive closer to the swamps, in the long grass, we see something moving swiftly. It pauses, and we can see the glimmering eyes. It’s an African Wild Cat, a first ever sighting for us.

Back at camp, it is time for dinner, and tonight we dine on a mushroom starter, bream (fish) for main course and lemon cheesecake for dessert.

My daughter and I decide to call it a night and we retreat to our luxury family tent, which is situated right next to the main area. Perfectly proportion­ed for a family of four, the two of us relish in the fact that we each have our own room.

The dark wooden furniture is beautifull­y compliment­ed with soft beige bedding. Our tent has an outside and inside seating area, two rooms, a shower, a bath and a flush toilet. After a shower with the Healing Earth products, I climb into bed and both my daughter and I are elated that there is a portable cooling system in our room to get rid of the sweltering heat.

A hyena’s call momentaril­y wakes me and as the new day starts, we all gather around the fire for breakfast. A crested barbet, red-billed francolin, greater blue-eared starling and a few tree squirrels scavenge for crumbs falling off the grill.

On our morning game drive, a duo of tree squirrels sun themselves in the early morning rays. In the marsh, a herd of buffalo are attempting to swim across the channel to the other side to feed on the long grass. The younger ones endeavor it with vigor while the older bulls take their time to get to the food.

In the mopane woodland, Des suddenly becomes quite animated as he has now discovered that my daughter is a keen birder. “I have something really special to show you”, he announces. He lets out a bird call. There is an answer. My daughter and I gasp in unison. It’s a breeding pair of Verreaux Eagle Owls and their chick, sitting perched high up in the branches of two separate trees. The chick is so fluffy, he looks almost like a stuffed animal.

With the no-schedule policy at Linyanti Ebony, we enjoy our afternoon at leisure poolside, taking in the magnificen­t vista over the marsh. In the distance, we can see elephants coming in for a drink. Or is it a feed? They really have the best of both worlds here.

During our evening game drive, we stop for sundowners to witness the red ball of fire sinking into the horizon. Dinner is a gastronomi­c feast consisting of fillet steak, hand-cut fries and chocolate mousse for dessert. We turn in timeously as we have an early start on our last day.

On our final morning at Linyanti Ebony, we decide to forego the game drive. Instead, we are treated to the most delicious breakfast, after which we are whisked away by Helicopter Horizons in the red Robinson R44 Raven II for a scenic flight over the marsh. Captain Liam McMillan knows the intricacie­s of the marsh and points out animals we don’t even notice. Part of your stay at Linyanti Ebony between March and November is a compliment­ary 30-minute scenic flight, undoubtedl­y a wonderful way to get a bird’s eye view of the surroundin­gs.

We are dropped off at the Saile airstrip for our flight back to Maun. Captain Chris Dekker from Mack Air is waiting next to the Cessna Grand Caravan and before we know it, we are on our way. A few pick-ups later and with a full flight of passengers, we land at Maun Airport. Time to check in for our Airlink flight back home to Cape Town. The queue is long, but the Airlink desk attendant is refreshing­ly friendly. She hands our boarding passes over, and with a smile, we know that our flight on the Airlink Avro RJ85 will be comfortabl­e and relaxing.

After take-off, we are offered a drink and meal service, and 2 hours and 35 minutes later, we land safely at Cape Town Internatio­nal Airport. It feels great to be home after creating such glorious memories with my daughter.

https://www.africanbus­hcamps.com/campssafar­is/botswana/linyanti-ebony/

Thank you to Jemma MacMillan from African Bush Camps for arranging our stay and for Linyanti Ebony for hosting us.

Views expressed are the author’s own.

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