The Restaurant at Blue Wren, Mudgee, New South Wales, Australia

Passion, precision and creativity are prevalent in everything from the décor to the food in this understated, yet elegant restaurant, which seats just 12, plus four at the Chef’s Table – a next-level dining experience. Watching chef and owner Kip Harris and sous-chef Steven work in their uniquely customised, ever-changing kitchen is fascinating with Kip meticulously assembling the elements on each and every plate, piece by piece. Fluid and experimental in his approach, there’s no menu, adding a touch of suspense. Quite the Mad Hatter in the kitchen, he enjoys watching you experience the various textures, shapes, colours and flavours – things are not what they seem, and they certainly don’t taste how they look. Featuring seasonally-focused ingredients, with each dish finely matched to a Blue Wren wine, our imaginative five-course, tasting menu had a somewhat yin and yang theme – delicate, light, and feminine flavours harmoniously paired with stronger, sharper and moodier ones, with each dish plated on a black or white plate. Highlights included the creamed celeriac puree with asparagus, peas, and broad beans – a thick, creamy broth taken up a notch with a poached egg, truffle oil and parmesan, and a chateaubriand steak fillet with cacao, gold and silver black pudding, a green sponge bread made from spinach and the ultimate kicker, a marmite foam, with a delicate, bubbly texture, yet a sharp and salty flavour. The three-hour taste journey was truly exceptional. When I asked chef Kip how he would describe his food, he simply said “memorable,” and that, it certainly was. bluewrenwines.com.au