NEW CALEDONIA: A NOD TO NAPOLEON
Celebrated for its beautiful beaches and laid back island vibes, New Caledonia also offers cultured travellers plenty to enjoy.
It took a rainy day in paradise to drag us away from the bliss of swimming in brilliant blue lagoon water as calm and clear as a cloudless summer sky.
The sticky heat of February in Nouméa can bring with it humidity that builds and builds until the tropical air, pregnant with anticipation and the scent of frangipanis, unleashes waves of warm rain that sends swimmers scrambling for the scant cover provided by coconut palm trees.
Blessed be the rains, because without them it would be very easy to become so distracted by the stunning beauty of New Caledonia’s islands, beaches and lagoons that you’d never towel off and see what else the South Pacific stand-out has to offer.
A favourite holiday destination of Australians and New Zealanders, New Caledonia’s capital, Nouméa, can be reached in two hours on direct flights from Brisbane, or just under three hours from Sydney. It’s the perfect short-hop long weekend getaway, and a lot closer than Paris for Francophiles who crave a decent croissant and the sweet melody of French accents discussing the price of ananas (pineapples) in the market.
The Gallic influence permeates every aspect of local life, from street names –
Rue this, and Promenade that – to cuisine, to the beauty brands carried in local pharmacies. Stores carry French champagne and the finest fragrances from Paris, while menus sing the praises of dishes that originated half a world away: Niçoise salad, steak frites and duck confit.
In the mid-19th century, under orders from Napoleon III, the French took formal possession of New Caledonia, sending criminals and political prisoners to do time in a castaway land.
Today, New Caledonia is officially an overseas territory of France, Emmanuel Macron is the Presidential Head of State, the residents are French citizens, and the supermarket shelves are stocked with fabulous cheese.
To begin to understand this intriguing melting pot of local indigenous Kanak culture, Sancerre-quaffing Frenchies and tropical island vibes, head to the spectacular JeanMarie Tjibaou Cultural Centre in Noumea.
When it opened its doors almost 20 years ago, the international museum community
Celebrated for its beautiful beaches and laid back island vibes, New Caledonia also offers
cultured travellers plenty to enjoy.
took a collective gasp. Designed by celebrated Italian architect Renzo Piano, who went on to imagine The Shard in London and the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York City, among other notable buildings, ‘Tjibaou’ was unlike anything seen before in the Pacific islands.
Named for Jean-Marie Tjibaou, the leader of the indigenous Kanak independence movement, it opened almost a decade after he was assassinated. Controversially calling for an end to French rule and a rising up of the local indigenous community, former priest Tjibaou was also passionate about creating a cultural centre where the many facets of Kanak heritage would be preserved, discussed and made available to all.
Long before green architecture was in vogue, Piano held an ambitious vision of building an international institution inspired by traditional Kanak ‘grand hut’ or ‘great house’ designs. He pored over photographs of villages where thatched huts reached for the sky; where a cursory glance at a hut’s size and location in the village could immediately speak volumes of the resident’s position in the local hierarchy.
Spread over a sprawling ridge a few kilometres from downtown Nouméa, Tjibaou’s Piano-designed ten soaring conical pavilions are made from long-lasting iroko wood which pack a visual punch. The layout of each pavilion is designed to take full advantage of the sea winds coming from the east, and positioned to control the changing patterns of sunlight throughout the day. Towering Norfolk Island pines stud the extensive grounds and provide shade for visitors picnicking amidst the traditional sculptures.
Inside, a permanent collection includes a room dedicated to telling the story of Jean-Marie Tjibaou’s life and another that details Piano’s creative process and time spent living in New Caledonia. The early plans, sketches and models of the eventual buildings will surely interest students and followers of eco-friendly architecture. A display of ancient Kanak stone carvings is worth a look, while a collection of works by contemporary Melanesian artists shows the depth and breadth of talent in the islands.
A changing roster of temporary exhibits has in the past included vintage photographs of Kanak village life, a thoughtprovoking collection of artworks made from plastic bottles retrieved from the sea, and cow sculptures cheekily made from corned beef tins. It’s a fresh, smart and compelling mix of presentations housed in an architectural masterpiece.
If you have only enough time or attention span for one museum, let it be Tjibaou. To explore more of the history of New Caledonia, set aside a few hours for the maritime museum, Musée Maritime de Nouvelle-Calédonie. Fanned by the trade winds of early European exploration in the
Pacific, New Caledonia’s history of maritime discovery and colonisation is chronicled through a permanent collection of more than 2,000 pieces retrieved from shipwrecks in the area.
Amateur historians and anybody with an interest in war memorabilia will find plenty worth seeing at the Museum of World War II, known as Musée de la Seconde Guerre Mondiale. New Caledonia was a vital player in the Pacific War battles, with as many as a million Allied troops spending time on bases
built to defend against Japanese offensives. The troops brought with them jeeps, jazz, chewing gum and Coca-Cola, and many objects on display evoke what must have been heady times in 1940s Nouméa.
In addition to lively museums and world-class institutions, the cultured traveller is invited to discover an artists’ trail in Nouméa. Inspired by the vivid colours, landscapes and people of the Pacific, and influenced by indigenous and European techniques, New Caledonia’s artists produce many works worthy of your wall space. To check out the paintings and sculptures of contemporary artists from the region, pay a visit to Galerie Arte Bello. Here you’ll find a comprehensive collection, at various price points, and the opportunity to take home a one-of-a-kind souvenir.
Frenchman Didier Zanette has funnelled his passion for Aboriginal and Oceanic art into Nouméa with DZ Galerie. Housed in a charming colonial building, Zanette’s curated works include tribal art, Pacific sculptures and dot paintings of the Australian outback. A passionate traveller, Zanette is happy to share his vision for collecting and preserving the artifacts of remote Kanak tribes.
With so much gallery-hopping and museum meandering on the docket, be sure to fuel up with delicious local fare. A quick flick through social media hashtags and it becomes apparent that New Caledonia’s cuisine is worth making a noise about. Influenced heavily by French chefs and products imported from the motherland, and seasoned with local ingredients and techniques, the cuisine is a tasty fusion of worlds apart. Expect to see just-caught local seafood cooked in French sauces, and tropical fruits served with creme brûlée.
Stop by one of Nouméa’s many patisseries for crusty baguettes and decadent eclairs, browse the extensive cheese aisles in local supermarkets and make the most of import duty concessions to enjoy quality French wine at affordable prices. A chilled glass of Chablis under the coconut palms? What a lovely way to while away an afternoon, rain or shine. •
Photography by Kristie Kellahan & Nouvelle Caledonia Tourism.