JAAN, SWIS­SÔ­TEL THE STAM­FORD, SIN­GA­PORE

Vacations & Travel - - Tried & Tested - By Aleney de Win­ter jaan.com.sg

In a city where it’s hard to find a bad meal, there are few restau­rants that still man­age to shock and awe. Sin­ga­pore’s Miche­lin-starred JAAN is def­i­nitely one of these. Float­ing amongst the clouds on the 70th floor of Swis­sô­tel The Stam­ford, the in­ti­mate 40-seat restau­rant’s stun­ning Mu­rano crys­tal free-form chan­de­lier and breath­tak­ing view of the Sin­ga­pore sky­line pale in com­par­i­son to the culi­nary magic cre­ated by Chef de Cui­sine Kirk West­away and his team.

An as­sem­blage of hors d’oeu­vres, each us­ing only the finest and fresh­est of sea­sonal pro­duce, in­tro­duces din­ers to Chef Kirk’s Bri­tish roots in the most de­light­ful way. In­spired by his own home county of Devon are a cloud-like puff of beet­root meringue with smoked eel, a pop of Devon­shire cheese in a buck­wheat pan­cake ball, fish and chips rein­vented with cod bran­dade in a crisp tartlet, and a clev­erly de­con­structed take on chicken curry.

A del­i­cate king crab and a painstak­ingly plated English gar­den of vi­brant veg­eta­bles, herbs and flow­ers, part­nered with Scot­tish kombu and herb broth is as pho­to­genic as it is palate pleas­ing. Eggs in an Egg sees Osci­etra caviar paired with a per­fectly cooked hen’s egg on a nest of cau­li­flower, panna cotta and mush­rooms. The line caught brill with ar­ti­choke is moist and flavour­ful. But it is an exquisitely ten­der San­choku wagyu that brings au­di­ble gasps to the ta­ble.

A whim­si­cal and quintessen­tially Bri­tish palate cleanser, Pimm’s in the Park, is pre­sented in a gar­den of wheat­grass with a poem penned by

Chef Kirk, whose fi­nal culi­nary son­net comes in the form of Gariguette straw­ber­ries mar­ried with lemon ver­bena meringue and a mas­car­pone sor­bet.

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