Mountain highs
“BRail experiences don’t get much more epic than North America’s Rocky Mountaineer. Now the train is veering off its Canadian tracks to link Colorado and Utah.
OOOOOM!” OUR DAPPER CARRIAGE host Michael bellows into the microphone. He is telling us about how Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid robbed this train – well, a predecessor, 125 years ago – and blew up the safe. I am aboard the Rocky Mountaineer’s new ‘Rockies to the Red Rocks’ route, travelling from Denver, Colorado, to the red canyon country of Moab, Utah. And for two days, our extremely jovial host will extol us with historical tales, railway lore and local wildlife sightings.
DENVER TO GLENWOOD SPRINGS
Day one of the rail journey begins early, but I – like most of my companions – have enjoyed days exploring vibrant Denver and its surrounds. Including nearby Colorado Springs, where the recently restored Pikes Peak Cogway climbs one of the most legendary mountains in the US. It’s the highest cog rail road in the world, and a fitting entree to the Rocky Mountaineer, one of 10 scenic and historic rail journeys across Colorado.
I can see why. We’re soon rising up pinedraped slopes and in and out of 29 train tunnels carved into the Rockies, the view unobscured thanks to the train’s domed windows. Our ever-changing vistas go from autumnal colours, to expansive green valleys, to the jagged walls of steep canyons.
There is no dining car, so passengers eat at their seats – with a linen tablecloth and accompanied by cocktails, mind you. You are not confined to your seat, though; there is also a plush lounge with a bar, and a vestibule between the carriages to allow for fresh air and photo-taking. It’s a popular spot.
Before we pause for the night at a hotel in Glenwood Springs – home to the world’s largest hot-springs pool – Michael tells us to
look out for bears on the riverbank. I don’t see any animals, but I do see lots of bare bums – local rafters on the river greet the passing train by dropping their strides.
GLENWOOD SPRINGS TO MOAB
We’re treated to a fiery sunrise as the train rolls out of Glenwood Springs alongside the Colorado River. At breakfast, the beverage cart is kept very busy as passengers indulge in mimosas and bloody Marys with their scrambled eggs. Why not take advantage of the unlimited drinks included in the package?
At noon we grumble to a halt in the middle of the Utah desert, where a bus is waiting to take us on a guided tour of Moab’s dramatic red sandstone canyons and arches. I am looking forward to seeing Canyonlands National Park, but it’s also bittersweet to be leaving the train. It is cocktail hour, after all.