Cash Only Diner

Sydney, Australia

The flavours at this colourful inner-city diner will transport you straight to Hu in Vietnam.

Don’t book a table at Vietnamese eatery Cash Only Diner expecting bowls of phࠚ or pork-laden bánh mì – this Sydney newcomer is very much dedicated to the distinctive flavours of Hu . The central Vietnamese city was the seat of Nguyen Dynasty emperors and the national capital from 1802 to 1945. The French began visiting in the mid-19th century, but the largely Buddhist population remains true to its roots to this day. All combined, Hu s history makes for a very interesting menu, as Cash Only Diner’s co-owner

Chau Tran knows only too well.

Chau’s mother grew up in the city, learning to cook at a French finishing school. She passed her love for food on to her daughter, who – with partner Bryce McDonough – have created an ode to this tasty heritage through dishes like bún bò Hu , an aromatic and layered beef soup with lashings of lemongrass, brisket and unctuous noodles. And c m h n, rice with baby clams, ginger and turmeric doused in a rich broth made from shrimp. The cá kho tộ is another winner, starring salmon cutlets caramelised to perfection in a claypot. Hot tip: order it with ban xeo (crispy pancakes served with a mountain of fresh herbs) if only to sop up the flavourful fishy sauce.

But Chau and Bryce haven’t forgotten Hu ’s Buddhist heritage, and satisfy veggie lovers by making sure most dishes can be created minus the meat. Like grilled stuffed eggplant, lotus salad and a sour soup that will make you pucker up – in the best possible way.

Sitting in the breezy restaurant, you’d hardly know that below your feet lies Chau and Bryce’s other (and original) venture, Burrow Bar. This award-winning subterranean lounge has speakeasy vibes, and its bartenders craft the creative cocktails you can sip with your meal. Order the signature ‘I Was in Nam’, which muddles Vietnamese iced coffee with a generous amount of booze, or the addictive ‘Jade Memories’, which takes the pandan flavour of classic Asian desserts and unites it with whiskey.

Be sure to wander down the stairs to Burrow after your plates have been cleared – this is one place you won’t want to leave in a hurry. cashonlydiner.com.au