GET A MOVE ON
Train is by far the easiest, fastest and most scenic way to explore Switzerland – it’s also extremely safe, with most trains offering plenty of space for ski gear. A Swiss Travel Pass not only gives you unlimited access to rail transport, but also buses, boats and public transport; not to mention free entry to more than 500 museums. myswitzerland.com/tickets myswitzerland.com/wintermagic
heated outdoor infinity pools in the Alps following a hot-stone massage or facial.
ALL THE BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
Good looks are essential when you arrive in Pontresina, adjacent to the glam town of St Moritz, where Liam Hemsworth happens to be holidaying when I arrive. It’s part of the much larger Engadin region, with four main peaks and 350 kilometres of piste, some 200 kilometres of cross-country ski trails and 150 kilometres of winter hiking trails. Like at many Swiss resorts, you can toboggan and snowshoe. You can also jump in the back of a horse-drawn carriage and ride into the Val Roseg valley with views of the gem-like Roseg glacier. Which I do.
The quiet is all-consuming, the only sounds the occasional thump of snow falling from pine and larch branches and the rush of air from our steeds’ nostrils. The horses prance through the powder while we cosily recline, wrapped in woollen blankets.
Outdoor adventures aside, the reason to come here is for the glam Grand Hotel Kronenhof, its horseshoe-shaped façade transporting you straight to the set of Wes Anderson’s The Grand Budapest Hotel.
PEAK PERFORMANCE
Postcard-perfect Zermatt sits at the foot of the Matterhorn, that 4,478-metre pyramid peak immortalised on the packaging of Toblerone chocolate bars. On my first night, 20 metres of powder blankets town, which sees fanatics clambering for their ski gear as soon as the lifts open. Truth be told, there’s no rush – this is the only place in Switzerland that gets 365 days of snow.
It’s the highest altitude and largest winter resort in the Alps, with 360 kilometres of trails catering to all levels.
I pull on boots and wander through powder that marks my knees. It’s tempting to fall back and let the drift consume. But the mountain restaurant of Findlerhof is in my sight, along with wine (essential) and creamy prawn curried soup (addictive).
It’s like a salve for the winter soul.
At a breathtaking 3,883 metres, Matterhorn also has a Glacier Palace, replete with ice sculptures of huskies and crystals. I take the cable car then cogwheel railway to get here, the view from the top revealing Italian, French and Swiss alpine giants – 29 peaks higher than 4,000 metres.
The only thing more inspiring is my planned dinner venue. Fondue, anyone?