New York Fashion Week時尚與藝術的火花
The world’s leading fashion week launched this year with a whole new direction, integrating art with fashion. Each label featured drew on the concept of entirety, with stunning creations gracing the models like unique works of art.
月中舉行的 2018‧ 紐約春夏時裝季的會場中，已經一掃秋冬季的灰色厚色搭配，取而代之的是挑眼的強烈色彩對比，善用花、條、紋等設計，完美融入各個視覺空間。社會視時裝為藝術品，強調的是單件時裝或配件，而今年秀場上注重的是整體，模特從頭到腳，甚至五官都成為該藝術品的一部分。
New York came alive in September, with the 2018 spring and summer fashion show sweeping away the greys of winter with bright contrasting colours featuring florals, new lines and inspirational cuts. Fashion is often seen as art, with an emphasis on each piece of the outfit and the perfect accessories. However, this year’s focus is on the ensemble as a whole, with the model’s facial features also being integrated as part of the art.
The exaggerated makeup of the past was replaced with a more subtle artistry using blocks of eye shadow, with cheek and lip colour to either complement or complete the ensemble. As designer Tom Ford says, “Designing is actually telling a story.” The new ways of using makeup at the 2018 NYFW shows that faces are an important part of the story. There were also more sport style fabrics used in the summer outfits than in previous years, helping to reveal the elegance and grace of the wearer with precise cuts and fittings. Street elements such as graffiti were also utilised by many labels.
Oscar de la Renta 講究剪裁和奢華，卻注入亮色塗鴉襯出流行的街頭風格，其小禮服運用漸變色層製造視覺感，一如既往的柔美讓品牌再佔上風。Desigual 新任藝術創意總監 Jean-paul Goude 本身就是創意藝術家及視覺設計者，他加強了服裝設計中的藝術感，與其說模特走秀，倒不如說，那是一件件前衛風格的藝術品。
TSE 品牌利用紡織品中得到的靈感，重新詮釋時尚的藝術，同時受到藝術家 El Anatsui 環保概念的啟發，EI運用無數瓶蓋製成的雕塑，配以物品的天然色調，這啟發了TSE以手工鉤針編織線圈製造服飾中層疊的立體感，成為該時尚秀的亮點。
Oscar de la Renta’s creations emphasised opulence and quality tailoring, while still incorporating bright graffiti designs to give his collection an edgy street style. A mini gown was layered using gradients of colour, creating a unique visual impact, cementing the designer’s place as a fashion leader. Desigual’s new creative director Jean-paul Goude, originally a creative arts director, designer and illustrator, brought a new edge to the label’s designs. Instead of the usual catwalk parade, each model was revealed on the stage, as if unveiling new works of art to the world.
TSE draws inspiration from textiles to reinvent the art of fashion. Influenced by artist El Anatsui’s elaborate sculptures comprised of countless recycled bottle caps and natural colouring, the label’s handstitched and woven coils brought a 3D effect to their stunning creations which were a highlight of the show.
設計其實就是說故事。-- Tom Ford 品牌設計師
Michael Kors made a bold move and utilised neutral tones of brown, black and white - despite the subdued palette, the designs shone with brilliance. Keeping the use of black to a minimum, the neutral tones highlighted a light summer style.
Each of the global fashion weeks, New York, Paris, Milan and London complement one another and the four together have a world-wide influence. Nearly one hundred labels and designers came together in a celebration of creativity, each with their own distinctive style. The sheer diversity of talent and imagination on show ensured that spectators will be inspired for some time to come yet!
Designing is actually telling a story. -- Designer Tom Ford
Michael Kors 設計師大膽使用各家都避開的素色，卻展露頭角，顏色雖素但去除厚重的黑層，每一款設計擁有夏日的輕與薄。