Brooks Broth­ers 200 Years of Amer­i­can Style

刮起經典美國風

Vision Magazine - - Con­tents - ENGLISH TEXT BY AVA ZHANG CHI­NESE TEXT BY CINDY CHOW

Amer­ica’s old­est cloth­ier, Brooks Broth­ers cel­e­brates its 200th an­niver­sary this year. In 1818, Henry Sands Brooks founded the com­pany as a novel con­cept – it was Amer­ica’s rst ready-to-wear fash­ion em­po­rium. In the fol­low­ing two cen­turies, Brooks Broth­ers shaped the Amer­i­can fash­ion style at ev­ery turn of its evo­lu­tion. The com­pany has with­stood the test of time through its tra­di­tions of time­less crafts­man­ship, su­pe­rior qual­ity, and ex­cep­tional value, com­bined with fash­ion in­no­va­tion.

The com­pany’s her­itage is in­ter­wo­ven with Amer­i­can his­tory. Brooks Broth­ers suits were favourites donned by con­se­quen­tial United States pres­i­dents such as Abra­ham Lin­coln and John F. Kennedy. For Abra­ham Lin­coln’s sec­ond in­au­gu­ra­tion, Brooks Broth­ers gifted the pres­i­dent a mag­nif­i­cent coat with the in­scrip­tion ‘One Coun­try, One Des­tiny’. John F Kennedy was fa­mously known for sport­ing the “Num­ber Two” two-but­ton suit dur­ing his time in of­fice. To­day, Brooks Broth­ers’ iconic suits have be­come a sta­ple for the dis­cern­ing mod­ern day white-col­lar worker.

The com­pany has also made its mark in pop­u­lar cul­ture. Katharine Hep­burn, a loyal Brooks Broth­ers cus­tomer, caused quite a stir when she sported a men’s trouser suit, a dar­ing dis­play for the 20th cen­tury fe­male. Ge­orge Clooney’s crisp Amer­i­can sil­hou­ette in the film ‘Up in the Air’ was the work of Brooks Broth­ers. The Brooks Broth­ers sil­hou­ette is a ubiquitous mo­tif in the pop­u­lar drama ‘Mad Men’, while Leonardo’s Dicaprio’s daz­zling wardrobe was sup­plied by Brooks Broth­ers in Baz Luhrmann’s colour­ful adap­ta­tion of ‘The Great Gatsby’.

In 1949, Brooks Broth­ers in­tro­duced the women’s shirt. The state­ment pink but­ton-up be­came widely pop­u­lar, and was even fea­tured in Vogue magazine. It was not un­til the mid-1970s that Brooks Broth­ers launched a com­plete women’s col­lec­tion. In 2016, Zac Posen was ap­pointed cre­ative direc­tor of wom­enswear. Keep­ing with Brooks Broth­ers tra­di­tion, Zac de­signs clas­sic pieces with an ul­tra-fem­i­nine flair fea­tur­ing lush fab­rics and buoy­ant prints.

一只由絲帶吊起的金色綿羊,兩位兄弟,串起了一個承傳兩個世紀的美國總統御用服裝品牌。創立於 1818 年的「布克兄弟」, 今年迎來了 200週年紀念,也為世人演繹了這個美國歷史最悠久的時裝品牌的傳奇。

布克兄弟以男士商務服為主,適合不同年齡層、不同場合。舒適的面料,得體簡潔的剪裁,透出簡約而內斂的品位,使其成為許多白領階層心目中的最佳服飾,也深得政界領袖如前美國總統林肯、肯尼迪、福特、布什等的青睞。1949年品牌向女裝進軍,無論是褲裝還是連衣裙, 淋漓盡致地剪裁出職業女性的利落與冷峻。

最早穿上西裝褲而造成話題的性格女星凱瑟琳‧赫本,是布克兄弟女裝的忠實顧客之一。之後,無論是喬治克魯尼主演的影片《在雲端 》(Up in the Air),還是風靡一時的美劇《廣告狂人》(Mad Men),隨處可見布克西裝。 在2013版電影《了不起的蓋茨比》中,明星效應發揮到極致——萊昂納多穿著的襯衣以及西裝全部由布克兄弟提供。

布克兄弟標誌性的時尚見證著一代代美國人的人生裡程碑——從第一件海軍運動夾克,到婚禮當天的定制西裝,再到出席兒女的婚禮儀式。如今,布克兄弟已經成為優質與經典的代名詞,並晉級為一個全球品牌,令年輕一代與傳統產生共鳴,並向經典致敬。

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