Mercedes-benz Fash­ion Week Aus­tralia

澳大利亞梅賽德斯‧奔馳時裝週

Vision Magazine - - Contents -

Ital­ian fash­ion de­signer and founder of Ver­sace, Gianni Ver­sace once claimed, “Don’t be into trends. Don’t let fash­ion own you, but de­cide what you are, what you want to ex­press in the way you dress and the way you live.” This clas­sic quote sums up the day-to­day Aus­tralian fash­ion style per­fectly - a free and ca­sual style de­rived from the bold, easy-go­ing per­son­al­ity of Aus­tralians. De­spite the dom­i­nance of Eu­ro­pean and Amer­i­can fash­ion labels, Aus­tralia still man­ages to hold its own on the global fash­ion stage and is mak­ing an in­creas­ing im­pact on the North­ern Hemi­sphere fash­ion in­dus­try. 意大利著名服裝設計師吉安尼‧凡賽斯(Gianni Ver­sace)曾說,「該穿甚麼自己決定,別讓時尚潮流影響你」。這句經典或許非常適合澳洲人。崇尚自然的個性,也令澳洲潮流散發著灑脫與隨意。歐美品牌對設計的嚴謹不但沒有影響到澳洲,反倒被自成一格的南半球時尚打破了北半球的格局。

Mercedes-benz Fash­ion Week Aus­tralia (MBFWA) is an an­nual Aus­tralian fash­ion event, hav­ing show­cased count­less in­no­va­tive Aus­tralian labels in the past. In­de­pen­dent in­ter­na­tional de­sign­ers are in­creas­ingly ea­ger to launch their col­lec­tions on the Aus­tralian fash­ion stage, ce­ment­ing the Aussie rep­u­ta­tion for its unique and bold ap­proach and guar­an­tee­ing that the global fash­ion spot­light will con­tinue to shine on its cat­walk.

This year’s Fash­ion Week opened with in­de­pen­dent Aus­tralian lux­ury fash­ion la­bel Camilla and Marc and their 15-year an­niver­sary col­lec­tion was the main show of the sea­son. The la­bel’s phi­los­o­phy cen­tres around sim­plic­ity in de­sign, al­low­ing the wearer to shine through, feel more con­fi­dent, and to live more cre­atively and fully. “Much like the Mercedesbenz car con­cept, we hope to in­tro­duce the ‘lux­ury’ and ‘tai­lored’ con­cepts into the Aus­tralian fash­ion in­dus­try,” brand co-founder, Marc Free­man said. The rigid tra­di­tions of other fash­ion shows were en­tirely ab­sent here. Freed from the north­ern hemi­sphere lim­i­ta­tions of sea­sonal trends, the holiday-themed col­lec­tions show­cased Aus­tralia as the get­away par­adise desti­na­tion that the rest of the world longs for.

MBFWA 一向被公認為澳洲最頂級的時裝秀,曾令無數澳洲本土設計師嶄露頭角。隨著時尚國際化的效應,海外的獨立設計師也開始湧上澳洲時裝秀的舞台。但群星彙集的T字走秀台上,被北半球季節牽引下的各大品牌設計,依然擋不住澳式時尚獨立風格的耀眼和與眾不同。

今年時裝秀的開場以創立15 週年的 Camilla And Marc 品牌為主線,洋溢著輕鬆愉快的『簡約度假風格』即使走出秀場步上街頭,也能展現另瀟灑。 「如同奔馳車的概念,我們希望將『奢華』和『量身打造』的兩個概念注入澳洲時尚,」其品牌創始人 Marc Free­man 說道。傳統時裝秀的中規中矩在這裡蕩然無存,各式各樣的『度假』主題,擺脫了季節的限制,彷彿在告訴世界:澳洲,就是度假天堂!

一場櫻花雨,伊人彩妝畔,眉心訴說喜與愁……

MBFWA注入了許多東方元素,聞名全球的 日裔設計師 Akira Iso­gawa 和其充滿浪漫色彩的設計風格多年來一直是時裝秀的亮點。而今年,設計師 Camilla Franks 卻以日本和服作為設計靈感的創意,讓人無不驚嘆。秀場架起櫻花樹,滿天飄蕩的『櫻花雨』,模特兒魅力四射的眼神,配以東方式的堅韌氣質,似乎在花語中悄悄讚美著秋末初冬的季節。

就像今年三月的墨爾本維珍時裝週一樣,不少中國時裝設計師和時尚博主也慕名觀摩了這場盛會,希望能從中找到靈感。有人說,時尚設計不只是衣服和化妝,其中更包括藝術和人文等多項元素。而澳洲獨特的時尚風格,不拘小節的澳式自由文化,早已不知不覺埋在設計創意的引子中。

MBFWA 2018 in­cluded many ori­en­tal el­e­ments, such as the worl­drenowned Ja­panese de­signer Akira Iso­gawa and their ro­man­tic and colour­ful de­sign style which has been a high­light of the show for many years. This year, Aus­tralian de­signer Camilla Franks de­buted her stun­ning col­lec­tion in­spired by Ja­panese ki­monos. The mod­els’ glam­orous and del­i­cate eye make up made a gor­geous state­ment, per­fectly com­pli­ment­ing the del­i­cate de­signs. The stage dec­o­ra­tion of cherry blossoms fea­tur­ing a sky filled with “sakura rain” made it seem like the flow­ers were gently wel­com­ing the early win­ter sea­son.

Much like the Virgin Aus­tralia Mel­bourne Fash­ion Fes­ti­val held in March, many Chi­nese fash­ion de­sign­ers and blog­gers lauded the show and hoped to gain in­spi­ra­tion from the cat­walk. There is a quote that says, “Fash­ion de­sign is not just about clothes and makeup, it en­com­passes the arts, hu­man­i­ties and many other el­e­ments.” Aus­tralia’s laid-back, lib­eral cul­ture seeps through into its fash­ion de­sign, re­sult­ing in pieces that are easy to wear, beau­ti­ful and also make a state­ment about the re­laxed cul­ture that cre­ated them.

PHOTO CREDIT: MBFWA 2018

ENGLISH TEXT BY KEVIN DONG CHI­NESE TEXT BY GE­OR­GIA XIA

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