NEW RULES OF FRAGRANCE

A change is afoot in the world of modern fragrance in which anything goes. Follow our rule book for navigating it.

A change is afoot in the world of modern fragrance in which anything goes.

RULE 1: SEX SELLS

Scent and sensuality have always been happy bedfellows. Since Calvin Klein’s provocative 90s advertising campaigns, fragrance houses have been bottling sexual innuendo with alluring combinations and aphrodisiac ingredients. Pioneering make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury describes her debut fragrance, Scent of a Dream, as a “fleurotic”: a new fragrance family that blends mood-enhancing light florals with the depth of a chypre. It even claims to “attract love, light, power, positivity and sex to all who wear it”. Meanwhile, niche perfumery Escentric Molecules incorporates unprecedented quantities of Iso E Super, an unscented aroma molecule known for its pheromone-like effect, in its now-cult fragrances.

RULE 2: DO AS THE FRENCH DO

The French have taught us a few vital beauty tips over the years. Take another cue from our European beauty neighbours and spritz your favourite scent into freshly washed hair: the movement of your locks will dispense a trail of fragrance throughout the day. Alternatively, change things up with a hair perfume. “People are more experimental today, applying fragrances in various forms,” says Ben Gorham, founder of cult fragrance outfit Byredo. We like Byredo Mojave Ghost Hair Perfume.

RULE 3: HIDDEN GENDER

Forget unisex: forward-thinking perfumers are taking things one step further with “genderless” scents that do away with preconceived olfactive notions. Calvin Klein coined the term with last year’s gender-neutral CK2 launch, while fragrance houses both established and niche, such as Jo Malone, Byredo, Comme des Garçons and Le Labo, are offering up gender-whatever formulas.

RULE 4: DESIGNER FRAGRANCES DONE RIGHT

The 90s were synonymous with a lot of things, including sometimes unimaginative designer scents that were little more than a “me too” accessory to the ready-to-wear offering. In contrast, today’s fashion fragrances are as considered as the designer’s runway creations. Take McQueen Parfum, the first scent under the direction of creative director Sarah Burton, a clever interlace of jasmine sambac, tuberose and ylang ylang. Likewise, Gucci Bamboo EDP, Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris EDP and Alaïa Blanche EDP move beyond their debut scents with bold yet distinctly refined juices.

RULE 5: KNOW YOUR NICHE

Niche fragrances were once reserved for one of two groups: true fragrance enthusiasts and the fragrance anti-establishment who would only spritz occasionally, content with the knowledge no-one else would be wearing the same scent. While the pillars haven’t changed – premium ingredients, limited quantities and adventurous combinations – the abundance of artisanal fragrance houses has made finding your niche more accessible. We love Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Atelier Cologne, and newcomer Odejo.

RULE 6: CHANGE THE WAY YOU THINK ABOUT ROSE

Rose is to fragrance what Karl Lagerfeld’s creative eye is to fashion: omnipresent, fundamental but, more importantly, ever-changing. “I’ve always loved the smell of roses, and the first fragrance I ever wore was rose water,” says fashion heavyweight and US Vogue creative director at large Grace Coddington, of her first scent Grace by Grace Coddington, a modern rose interpretation with notes of peach blossom and white musk. Lancôme’s long-standing iconic rose fragrance Trésor has also reimagined its star ingredient via a lighter juice in La Nuit Trésor EDP Caresse, which centrepieces rose, albeit with a newfound lightness.

RULE 7: IT CAN BE ADDICTIVE

All-consuming, intoxicating, hypnotic – it’s no coincidence fragrances have been satisfying our urges for decades. Take Yves Saint Laurent’s enigmatic Opium, which, with the name’s narcotic connotations, ignited a trail of controversy following its launch in the late 70s. Dior Addict, released in 2002, joined a raft of other hedonistic scents. For your next fix, try Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle’s Cologne Indélébile.

RULE 8: FEEL THE HEAT

Heat can alter the composition of fragrances on the skin, thanks to sweat and humidity. Pulse-point application – where the skin is naturally warmer – can affect the fragrance’s longevity (see rule two), particularly in the height of the hot season. Opt for lighter scents from the citrus family, reapply often, and try layering your go-to fragrance with a decadent body oil or cream during summer – it doubles the lifespan of your fragrance. Also remember to always store your flacons in a cool, dry place, free of direct sunlight.

RULE 9: DON’T GO OVERBOARD

Like anything we encounter every day, we naturally become desensitised to our own scent. This doesn’t mean your fragrance is diminishing by the day; it simply means you’ve become accustomed to the notes. The rule of thumb? Don’t drench yourself in fragrance each day. If you are concerned your fragrance has lost its mojo, introduce an evening scent to your repertoire to keep your olfactive receptors guessing.

RULE 10: BE SCHOOLED BY A NON-PERFUMER

There’s no denying fragrance is an art form. Talk to any accomplished perfumer and you’ll find it goes well beyond an occupation to a full-blown obsession, all-encompassing, beguiling and charming. Atypical perfumers – those without formal training – are cropping up more lately, spellbound by the world of fragrance and utterly dedicated to it. The latest is ALTAIA, a niche perfumery founded by a husband and wife duo inspired by Italy’s picturesque Positano. The pair (he’s a journalist and she’s a documentary film-maker) has created four unique scents that draw from their family history and travels. Similarly, it was a chance encounter with perfumer Pierre Wulff that sparked Byredo founder Ben Gorham’s appetite for fragrance, and, in turn, espoused a movement from mainstream perfumery to Gorham’s unique, minimalist aesthetic.