Line up
Prepare to read between the lines of the spring/summer ’17 season and embrace kohl.
eauty took linear point of view at the spring/summer ’17 shows, with eyeliner cropping up from Altuzarra to Louis Vuitton in all four fashion capitals.
Whether the eyes were winged, as seen at Fendi and Elie Saab, or ringed with kohl, it was as if Margot Tenenbaum herself had whispered in the ears of make-up artists backstage.
If an all-black look isn’t your thing, fear not, as the dark shade wasn’t the only colour drawn into the firing line this season, with sapphire swiped across lids at Giorgio Armani, silver accents etched into the inner corners of eyes at Versace and maroon pencilled into the waterline at Chloé.
“Sometimes people have the idea that the more dramatic your eyes look the darker you should go, but you can often achieve a more striking and flattering look with neutral tones,” says Laura Mercier make-up ambassador Ania Milczarczyk on opting for colour over black. “Neutral or brown tones on lighter features can often create a similar effect – and look more natural if you are after a daytime alternative.”
Which is exactly the path make-up artist Lucia Pieroni went down at Christopher Kane, taking a cue from wartime beauty tricks. Inspired by stories of women who used cigarette ash in lieu of eyeshadow, Pieroni applied a neutral cream-grey shadow to both the tightline and waterline for a lived-in look.
Of course, just as important as a bold new look is what kohl can hide. White or nude shades can mask tired, red eyes with a simple flick of the wrist, while silver or gold in the inner corners can do wonders for elongating the shape of the eye area.
The lesson here? There’s an option, no matter your preference, for even budding eyeliner artists this season.
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