INNER CIRCLE
A slew of labels are finding cut-through by having a heart.
A slew of labels are finding cut-through by having a heart.
As a member of Gen Y, I’ve looked on as my generation has been called all sorts of unfortunate descriptions: lazy, entitled, narcissistic, bad at maths and problem-solving (phones do it for us!), civically disengaged, with too much self-regard. But there’s a softer, kinder portrait emerging, outside the scrutiny of the mainstream, and it’s filtering through in an unlikely place: our wardrobes.
The dresses we’re wearing and the jackets we’re supposedly slouching under are increasingly being made in places we can trace, from fabrics that are ethical and by people who are properly paid. Ask that girl in the floral Dôen blouse, over repurposed vintage Levi’s with a vintage bag – she knows, and her friends do, too.
Labels are calling it the ‘sustainable imperative’ and it means so much to millennial women that they’re willing to pay for it above all else. Multiple studies say three quarters of Gen Y will pay more for pieces from a brand committed to positive social and environmental impact. But it is not limited to a single age group.
Everyone can feel the real symptoms of global warming; sweating or shivering in our maillots and cashmere respectively. We’re all dismayed by world powers with dishonest figureheads and turn to avenues outside of the establishment, drawn instead to those being upfront. “People’s general trust in institutions and businesses in the world is declining,” says Anna Gedda, head of sustainability at retail giant H&M. “It becomes increasingly important for brands to be open about who they are.”
A large company, H&M speaks openly about shortcomings, and is recognising the imperative to be a fast fashion outlet committed to reducing negative impacts. “I think this is expected of brands today,” says Gedda, who foresees customers turning away from companies that don’t demonstrate a bit of heart – like H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Collection, an elevated offering made from only sustainable materials. “They see the brands they engage with as a reflection of who they are and what’s important to them as individuals.”
Smaller labels with a mission are finding an opportunity to connect with customers who share their core values, more often than not on social media. “Consumers are more empowered with information than they’ve ever been before, and can choose for themselves what they want to buy,” says Yael Aflalo, the founder of LA label Reformation, who knows customers expect transparency – demanding information at any time on Instagram, Twitter or Facebook. The label aims to be carbon neutral and has created a ‘ref scale’ to show the environmental impact of each garment that they make from deadstock fabric and talk openly to their customers. One will share an image of Nita Talbot in 1951 asking if they can make an updated take on her blouse, or request plus and petite sizes, “rightly so”, says Aflalo.
A building of a genuine community who talk back has boosted labels like Re/Done, which makes jeans from old Levi’s. “We think there is a huge difference between brands that have fans and brands that have community. A fan might like a specific piece you make or a collection, but a community wants to be part of your world,” says Re/Done co-founder Sean Barron. Re/Done followers tag each other in photos, sharing what a fit of a jean feels like and how comfortable or not it is to sit in. It also means brands are multifaceted; it’s not just about the jeans you buy but the way you live your life in them. E-boutique Lisa Says Gah stocks a range of labels that support sustainable practice and women at the same time. “The site is one part e-commerce, one part inspiration images, one part blog,” says founder Lisa Bühler. “We focus on the incredible designers and intelligent, creative women who inspire us … we make the site feel more like a fun place to hang out, not just shop on.”
MaisonCléo, a small cult French label designed and sewn by a mother-daughter duo, has charmed followers with its old-world approach to clothing, and will poll followers on Instagram Stories to ask if they should make a skirt in a particular colour, or re-do a sell-out dress. “It often happens that a simple question sent by a private message ends in a chat. They can participate,” says co-founder Marie Dewet. Similarly, insiders’ jewellery label Alighieri, which uses recycled bronze, has built cache through slower production values. Designer Rosh Mahtani encourages clients to share the stories of their pieces she wants to be kept forever. “I want people to connect with each other through these objects,” Mahtani says.
In the end, getting to know the real people behind the labels is more appealing than buying blindly from a faceless corporation. A spirit of collaboration and peer support is prevailing and a feelgood factor of buying to have a positive impact is sustaining countless brands. It adds up to, at least in this Gen Y-er’s mind, a soulful, sustainable, and far from selfish future.