VOGUE Australia

FROM SKETCH TO OUTFIT

The steps for making a couture piece.

-

1 Karl Lagerfeld sketches each outfit and explains it to Douchez. “Karl’s sketches are very detailed, so I understand everything at first sight,” she says. “It’s very exciting to start a new piece.”

2 A pattern is cut, and a toile is made, with Douchez in charge of the first pins in the toile. For symmetry, she makes only the right-hand side, so that it can be doubled. “It is my job to do the right-hand side of the pattern.”

3 The first fitting is when specifics about volume are decided. “Karl knows exactly what he wants. He has this idea in his mind, and I really need to listen to Karl’s words, because it helps build it in my head. These oral explanatio­ns are very useful to me.” It is also when the fabric and embroidery details are decided. “Karl might say: ‘No, it shouldn’t be pleated: it needs a little more volume here.’ This is decided at the first fitting,” says Douchez.

4 “After the first fitting, the race starts!” says Douchez. “My team have to send the placement of the embroidery drawings to the embroidery ateliers – from there, everything starts.”

5 Ahead of the show, Lagerfeld styles the outfits, deciding which accessorie­s go with which look. “He styles through the night after everything has been made. It’s the finishing touch!”

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia