VOGUE BEAUTY
THE GLOW GUIDE
The latest innovations, formulas and protocols are all in the name of glowing skin, says Remy Rippon.
HIGH VOLTAGE
How to one-up megawatt skin? With a painterly swipe of silver pigment, for an instant intergalactic effect. Make-up by Marc Jacobs Beauty, starting with Shameless foundation in Medium, $70, worn throughout. Eye-Conic Multi-Finish Eyeshadow Palette in Frivoluxe, $68, mixed with artist’s own mixing liquid to create a silver effect. Highliner Gel Eye Crayon eyeliner in Blacquer, $36. Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara, $21. Glow Stick Glistening Illuminator, $62. Enamored Hydrating Lip Gloss in Mocha Choco-lata!, $42. Nail polish, worn throughout, manicurist’s own. Marni coat. Repossi ear cuff.
SHINE ON
Forget symmetry: add an air of allure to an otherwise blank canvas with an explosion of colour. Marc Jacobs Glow Stick Glistening Illuminator, $62. Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner in Plum(Age), $36. O!mega Shadow Gel Powder Eyeshadow in O!Mercy, $42. Lanvin sweater.
Hit the exfoliating sweet spot
At the risk of stating the obvious, the importance of exfoliation when it comes to a glowing complexion bears repeating. The age-old protocol has come a long way from those fruity scrubs that rubbed skin raw, and now experts are getting behind alpha-hydroxy acids (like glycolic and lactic acids) and beta-hydroxy acids (like salicylic acid) to churn through dead skin cells that have failed to regenerate as we age. But a word of caution: don’t overdo it. If you have sensitive skin, rosacea or acne, too much (or the wrong kind) of exfoliation can exacerbate flare-ups, so cut back to once a fortnight and consult a dermatologist to determine which exfoliation practice will be most beneficial.
Don’t underestimate hyaluronic acid
No glow guide would be complete without the MVP of lit skin: hyaluronic acid, which binds to water and collagen to boost hydration. It’s naturally produced by the skin, however, like most processes in the epidermis, its production tapers off as we age. That’s why many formulas on the market are spiked with the ingredient. There’s also the injectable kind commonly found in fillers. Juvederm has recently launched Volite, an injectable with less hyaluronic acid than regular fillers, “meaning it can be injected into the upper layers of the skin”, says dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald. “This increased hyaluronic acid in the dermis gives a plumping effect and improves the texture of the skin. Increased hydration equals increased luminosity.”
Eat your way to glowing skin
You are what you eat. It’s a phrase we’ve heard time and time again, but coupled with a savvy skincare regimen, it may unlock a glowing complexion. Reach for a rainbow of vegetables, such as dark leafy greens (rich in vitamin C for collagen production), and berries (full of antioxidants that fight free radicals), as well as range of seafood. “Seafood is loaded with zinc, omega-3 fatty acids and selenium. Zinc helps to rebuild collagen, fats promote cell growth and selenium reduces cell damage and inflammation,” says nutritionist and author Jess Sepel.
Say hello to ceramides
We hear a lot about peptides and retinol, but using ceramides might be the fastest way to a glowing complexion. Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids that act like a grid between our skin cells. When the grid collapses, the skin’s barrier function is shot. That equates to plummeting moisture levels and a spike in irritation. The good news? According to a 2018 study, a single application of a ceramide-spiked formula increased skin hydration and significantly reduced trans-epidermal water loss in the following 24 hours. Synthetic ceramides are showing up in a host of skincare lines, like newto-market CeraVe. “Ceramide-based cleansers and moisturisers are a true skincare game-changer … we know that lower levels of ceramides are seen in a range of skin conditions,” says dermatologist Dr Eleni Yiasemides, from Sydney’s SouthDerm clinic.
Dial an expert
Many studies have shown that when we assess the age of others, the eye glosses over wrinkles and lines, and instead focuses on overall skin tone and texture. The takeaway? Glowing skin trumps everything. While a radiance-boosting skin regimen is important, it may be complemented by brawnier treatments. Lunchtime laser treatments such as Clear + Brilliant improve overall skin tone, texture and clarity and can even ensure your at-home routine penetrates the skin more efficiently.
Made to order
“Your skin is not static. Today, your top skin concern might be unevenness of skin tone, and tomorrow it might be lines and wrinkles – the conversation always continues,” says Janet Pardo, senior vice-president of Clinique. The biggest brands have finally tuned into the fact that everyone’s skin concerns are different, and our own bugbears may change from week to week. Short of having your own pocket dermatologist, you can rest assured a handful of brands are bringing personalisation to skincare with bespoke formulations and interchangeable routines that allow to you easily tag-team products in and out of your regimen. (We love Clinique iD, with nifty, active cartridges that you swap in and out of your favourite moisturisers, depending on your concern.)
Break a sweat
If you needed yet another reason to hit the gym, then this is it. According to a study published by a group of researchers at McMaster University in the United States, engaging in exercise not only helps your skin appear younger by halting the thickening of the outer layer of the skin (a process that happens as we age), all that huffing and puffing may also reverse some signs of ageing. If that’s not enough to get you moving, know that a sweat session also fuels feelgood endorphins, thwarts the production of cortisol (a contributor to acne) and promotes blood flow to the skin, which acts like a natural glow enhancer.