COMING CLEAN
The beauty world is increasingly being swept ‘clean’, thanks to the latest formulas and innovations that focus as much on what they include as what they don’t. Remy Rippon cuts through the confusion to deliver a foolproof guide.
The beauty world is increasingly being swept ‘clean’, thanks to the latest formulas that focus as much on what they include as what they don’t.
AS A CATCH- ALL TERM,
clean beauty sounds simple enough, but dig a little deeper and the beauty industry’s latest phenomenon can be as complicated as it is intriguing. From the often contradictory terminology to the myriad ingredients flooding the clean beauty market, it’s little wonder we’re left scratching our heads.
At a glance, the trend that started on our plates with the organic food movement has now flowed into our beauty cabinets via trimmed-down ingredients lists, sustainable packaging and innovative formulations that often claim to deliver the same beauty benefits as their synthetic counterparts. Like the food we stock in our fridge, what we choose to slather on our skin ultimately boils down to personal preference; it’s important to note that clean doesn’t necessarily equally efficient. But where to start and what to look out for? Follow our foolproof guide.
KNOW YOUR KEYWORDS CERTIFIED ORGANIC
Starting with the soil in which the ingredients are grown to the entire production process, if a beauty product is anointed ‘certified organic’ it means it hasn’t been exposed to synthetic chemicals. While there are a few regulating bodies, Australian Certified Organic is one of the most popular and thorough in Australia.
NATURAL
As the name suggests, natural ingredients are derived from the environment and may show up in beauty products as plant oils or fruit extracts. While it’s easy to determine whether an ingredient, on its own, is natural, it’s a little tricker to categorise a complete formulation. Plus, the usage of the word isn’t adequately regulated, so the packaging can carry the claim even if the product contains only a few natural ingredients. Keep in mind that natural doesn’t always equal better, either. In fact, a natural ingredient can even benefit from being paired up with a synthetic counterpart to effectively stabilise it.
VEGAN
Like Beyoncé’s much-publicised pre-Coachella meal plan, vegan skincare is pretty similar to vegan food: that is, it leaves out ingredients that are derived from animals. That includes beeswax, lanolin (extracted from sheep’s wool) and obscure ingredients like squalene (from shark liver oil).
NON-TOXIC
The most ubiquitous term under the banner of clean beauty would have to be non-toxic. Since cult beauty brand Drunk Elephant exploded onto the scene five years ago, the skincare phenomenon has been steadily on the rise. The term is loose, and there are varying definitions, but by and large it refers to formulations free of parabens and sodium lauryl sulphate, both of which have been known to irritate sensitive skin.
IT’S ONLY NATURAL
Another day, another new ingredient pledging to treat, nourish and protect our complexions. But these natural wonders have caught our attention for all the right reasons.
CHARCOAL
We might be preaching to the converted (who hasn’t slathered on a charcoal mask?), but the glow-inducing benefits of charcoal can’t be overstated. It’s popular for good reason: the organic material draws out impurities and mops up excess oil without leaving the complexion tacky or dry.
SEAWEED
Recently, beauty formulas have taken a dive into the deep blue with seaweed extract and kelp showing up in everything from moisturisers to shampoos. Seaweed is rich in antioxidants, making it a savvy choice
for protection against environmental aggressors. It’s also effective at controlling oiliness, so look for it in the ingredients lists of hair elixirs.
SILVER
The beauty industry has always been obsessed with shiny things like copper and gold. Now silver is the go-to ingredient. While the metal has been used for centuries as an anti-inflammatory agent, colloidal silver is making its way into acne formulations to tame flare-ups and redness.
TURMERIC
Sure, it’s been dubbed the buzz ingredient in skincare circles for a while now, but that doesn’t mean it’s any less effective. Like silver, turmeric has been used forever – most commonly in India, where it was slathered on as a natural UV shield. Nowadays, its anti-inflammatory superpowers mean it gets to work on eczema and rosacea. And the antioxidants in turmeric may even help control acne-causing bacteria.
GREEN TEA
If we sip it daily, pretty soon it’s going to show up in our skincare regimen. First, it was coffee, now green tea, a powerful antioxidant, is our latest topical obsession. It’s known to do just about everything – de-puff dark circles, calm breakouts, control oiliness and combat free radicals – so make it as much a part of your routine as your morning elixir.
QUINOA
Just when you thought quinoa had been trumped by trendier superfoods like hemp and moringa, it proves just how clever it is. Firstly, it’s high in protein, which is why it’s most commonly used in hair care to strengthen bonds and reduce breakage. In skincare, however, where you’ll come across it as an extract or oil, it’s soothing and moisturising, too.
MAKING GOOD
A Neilsen report found that 52 per cent of global consumers check product packaging for sustainability claims. A little goes a long way, which is why some of the biggest companies globally are introducing small changes – thoughtful packaging, sustainable ingredients – to ensure the long-term viability of the products in our beauty cabinet.
In the hair salon, Wella has brought to market EOS, a plant-based hair dye free of ammonia, peroxide and parabens. It’s a natural colourant, derived from a trio of henna, cassia and indigo. And Aveda, an innovator in sustainability practices, has launched two new hair formulations that clean strands without the need for water. The idea is to encourage water conservation by skipping shampoo days and lengthy showers.
Likewise, Mugler, a brand that pioneered sustainability in fragrance when it started offering refillable perfume flacons in the early 90s, recently provided a service within Myer’s Sydney and Melbourne stores that allowed you to drop off any empty fragrance bottle at the Mugler x TerraCycle recycling stations and receive a Mugler Angel refillable fragrance bottle in return.
Elsewhere, Olay recently launched a plan to offer its best-selling moisturiser, Regenerist Whip, in recyclable packaging. And, just last year, skincare brand Ren announced that it’s not only creating a completely recyclable bottle, but one made up of 20 per cent reclaimed ocean plastic. Keeping with our oceans, La Mer donated US$25 to its fund supporting ocean conservations projects around the globe for each public social post tagging its limited-edition Blue Heart Crème de la Mer in the month of June.