FUTURE FACING
With an ever-changing environment and whip-smart innovation propelling the beauty industry forward, Remy Rippon surveys how skincare is set to evolve.
With an ever-changing environment and whip-smart innovation propelling the beauty industry forward, we survey how skincare is set to evolve.
Pollution comes into focus
If you’re savvy with your skincare, chances are you’ve heard a lot about the impact pollution has on your complexion. But going forward, prepare to hear a lot more. “When pollution hits unprotected skin, the first thing it does is break down the skin’s own natural barrier function,” explains Dr Barbara Sturm, who worked in molecular orthopaedics before founding her eponymous skincare line. Scientists and dermatologists alike are investigating innovative ways to strengthen and protect the skin’s barrier – effectively our natural coat of armour against external aggressors from city smog to the blue light perpetually radiating from our screens. “The most under-appreciated form of pollution is HEV [high-energy visible] – blue light pollution from our mobile phones and devices that has been shown to penetrate the skin more deeply than UV-A and UV-B and cause premature ageing,” warns Sturm. “A screen to catch and trap pollution before it attacks exposed skin is as necessary as sun protection and is becoming more respected in the world of skincare.”
Getting personal
While many beauty brands currently offer a riff on personalisation, so far that’s been limited to an assessment of your skin’s bugbears and addressed via a semi-tailored approach. The drawback? It gives us almost no insight into why the problems, from acne to pigmentation, show up in the first place. Enter DNA testing. Usually performed on a sample from a mouth swab, DNA testing will answer the ‘why’ behind your skin’s concerns and spell out your genetic tendencies, your individual ageing process, and the strengths and weaknesses of your complexion. “I can see this dramatically changing the way we direct skincare, to be specific to the individual,” says dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald. “It may also change the way we treat inflammatory skin conditions, as we may be able to identify the triggers and prevent them.” A handful of pioneering skincare companies, including Melbourne-based Rationale, already offer DNA analysis, with the process to become more sophisticated with leaps in technology.
You, me and UV
Everyone knows by now that sunscreen is a mainstay of any effective skincare regimen, but our future approach will extend beyond SPF. Through its San Francisco-based technology incubator, L’Oréal has developed UV Sense, a wearable nail sticker that regularly measures the UV index and synchs the data to the wearer’s phone. The solar-powered device, which lasts for up to four weeks, reminds the wearer to reapply sunscreen throughout the day. It seems to be working: in the trial phase, 34 per cent of users reported applying sunscreen more often.
Shaped by water
You probably haven’t given much thought to the water you splash on your face each morning, but changes to the mineral content in tap water can affect your complexion. “Changes in water chemistry is something to look out for,” says dermatologist Dr Dennis Gross, adding that pollution, mining and land development can alter calcium levels in our water supply. In Australia, these levels differ by area, which is why you might notice changes, either positive or negative, to your hair and skin while travelling. “Higher levels of calcium in water is what we call ‘hard’ water … It changes the chemistry of the oil the skin naturally produces, which leads to an increase sensitivity, redness, rosacea, acne and dryness,” says Dr Gross.
Natural, but better
Organic, natural and clean beauty brands have exploded onto the skincare market in the past 10 years, with forecasters estimating the category to be worth a cool $54 billion by 2027. And while many natural brands originated in a home kitchen using some simple pantry staples, the formulations are becoming increasingly savvy. Expect to see an upswing of sophisticated natural ingredients that rival the benefits of their synthetic counterparts. Bakuchiol, a plant-derived ingredient gaining a lot of traction for its likeness to anti-ageing powerhouse retinol, is showing up in plenty of natural skincare formulas. And the buzz surrounding cannabidiol, a hemp plant extract, is set to get even louder, as its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial benefits make it an effective acne treatment.