SHAPE SHIFTING
There are countless ways to read a season, but this time designers were unified in their appeal to be different. Familiar proportions and silhouettes are getting a rethink, with inventive new shapes alternating between covering up and showing flashes of s
HOLE STORY
In his role as Burberry’s chief creative officer, Riccardo Tisci borrows as much from the street as from Savile Row. How? By rethinking ways to conceal and reveal. A tailored suit in the house’s check is free of any stiff, self-serious air, with cotton shirts playfully cut out to reveal skin.
Burberry jacket, $3,150, top, $990, and pants, $3,150.
ALL FOR ONE
Keep it simple, as Alessandro Michele at Gucci does, and hero one part of the body so none are wrestling for attention. Here, a deep V-cut lace camisole taps into the trend toward lingerie-inspired pieces, and is quietly supported by tailored trousers.
Gucci top, $3,500, and pants, $1,500. Miu Miu earrings, $460. Cartier bracelet, $36,500. Balenciaga shoes, P.O.A.
LEAN OUT
Rambling florals for spring just won’t do for Miuccia Prada, who looked instead to fuss-free clothes that can endure. The proposed new silhouette was precise and streamlined, thanks to an ultra-thin ribbed knit and pencil skirt.
Prada top, $1,590, skirt, $5,140, and shoes, $1,290. Bulgari earrings, $6,100. Sarah & Sebastian ear cuff, $1,800.
BACK STORY
With a collection in parakeet green to highlight his message, Pierpaolo Piccioli warned against stagnant shapes. Instead he proposed bright pleats for evening in place of figurehugging gowns to propel us into motion and allow drama in the back. Valentino dress, $7,600.
MAJOR BLAZER
One look at his collections for Balenciaga proves that Demna Gvasalia is working tirelessly to debunk the myth that broad-shouldered silhouettes are unflattering. A must-have wardrobe essential in emerald green, this 80s-inspired blazer proves the opposite. Wear over a dress for a masculinefeminine juxtaposition.
SLING SHADY
Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee wants us to take heed: a layered look need not be complicated. In lieu of the tried-and-tested little black dress, Lee’s ribbed knit version presents an asymmetrical option that traces the curves of the body. Minimalist but clever. Bottega Veneta dress, $4,070. Chaumet ring, $3,820.