VOGUE Australia

Turning the page

When the #VogueChall­enge – a hashtag that encouraged people to independen­tly create a Vogue cover that they would like to see – exploded online recently, it captured the hopes of a generation, and proposed a better way of seeing.

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Edelman said: “You can’t be what you can’t see,” the American activist hit on the effect under-representa­tion can have on those who don’t see themselves in mainstream media. The #VogueChall­enge hashtag sees users capturing their own images and has garnered 275K posts on social media at time of writing. As individual­s from all around the world have produced these covers in their entirety, often conceptual­ising, photograph­ing, modelling and

WHEN MARIAN WRIGHT MARLEY MORGAN

“I am a proud descendant of the Wiradjuri and Yuwaalaraa­y nations. I work and operate in Gumbaynggi­rr country. I am a mother to two boys. My work reflects my personalit­y and my deep connection to Country and culture. I am a passionate believer in keeping culture alive through learning from it, growing by it and passing it on to our next generation.”

Why did you decide to do the #VogueChall­enge?

“I originally posted my #VogueChall­enge to raise awareness to the lack of representa­tion and job opportunit­ies for First Nations people in mainstream media.”

Tell us about the idea behind the final image you posted and the messages in your own words that are captured in it?

“This image is something you would never see in a mainstream publicatio­n. I am wearing minimal make-up, ochre and paperbark. The earrings are made by Aboriginal-owned business Minaku, run by my tidda girl, Nancy May. It is a very simple photo with a lot of heart and meaning. My culture is beautiful and deserves to be celebrated. This is the kind of cover I would love to see from Vogue.”

What do you hope those making decisions within the traditiona­l fashion and beauty systems take away from this image, and the #VogueChall­enge at large?

“It’s time to move forward and be more progressiv­e. It’s time to book First Nations models, photograph­ers, videograph­ers, designers, artists, directors and all other creatives who have a powerful voice just waiting to be heard.”

The Black Lives Matter movement is for many a catalyst to re-examine existing structures and industries. What does a media landscape that reflects who we all are look like to you?

“Being a Black woman, I have personally found that my voice and message has tried to be silenced, even when non-Indigenous people are trying to do the right thing. I believe education and having our voices amplified is incredibly important in making real progress.” styling them, they have sought to demonstrat­e that the cover of Vogue should not be visual real estate held by a narrow definition of beauty. It has served as an important visual articulati­on of a lack of diversity in the fashion and beauty spheres, in front of, and behind, the camera. We asked some of the creators close to home about their images and the value system that has reigned in the fashion and beauty industries, as they put the challenge to us to join the call: visibility for all.

BOBBI LOCKYER

“My name is Bobbi Lockyer. I am a Ngarluma, Karriyarra (Pilbara) Yawuru, Nyulnyul (Kimberley) woman from Port Hedland. I am a creative storytelle­r – I am a photograph­er and an artist.”

Tell us about the idea behind the images you created.

“The images I chose because I feel they represent First Nations culture, showing how strong, resilient and staunch our people are and our incredible culture is. [This] image is a portrait of a Yindjibarn­di mother and daughter. The daughter was pregnant with her first child at the time and the mother was to become a grandmothe­r.”

In what ways can the #VogueChall­enge push us all to make collective change?

“The #VogueChall­enge has given a platform for a minority group, Indigenous people, which is amazing, but for the long-term we need to look at ways of changing the narrative going forward and normalisin­g it. Vogue is such a visual magazine, so for Indigenous people and people of colour to see imagery that resonates and represents us as a race is such a positive movement.”

What does a media landscape that reflects who we all are look like to you?

“I would love to see a media landscape where we don’t have to push so hard for diversity or inclusion, as well as not being featured just because it may be the current trend … I want to see it change in such a way that the screen is filled with at least 50 per cent minority groups regardless of race, gender, disability and so on. So it’s not just for Indigenous people but for those who are often under-represente­d or misreprese­nted in the media.”

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