HOW TO REALLY BRING ABOUT A BRIGHTER FASHION FUTURE? ITS INDUSTRY POWER PLAYERS MUST JOIN THE CHARGE. ALISON LOEHNIS, PRESIDENT OF THE INFLUENTIAL ONLINE E-TAILER NET-A-PORTER, IS NOT ONLY ON BOARD, BUT FORGING HER OWN PATH, DEMONSTRATING HOW CREATIVITY,
underestimated – when an upstart label counts Net-A-Porter as a stockist, soon after comes global recognition. Alison Loehnis, president of luxury online retailer Net-A-Porter (as well as Mr Porter), knows just how much reach it has, so to her, it is imperative its influence is a force for change. Joining the parent company, now known as Yoox Net-A-Porter Group (YNAP), in 2007, Loehnis has launched initiatives including Net Sustain, a curated platform of sustainable design, talent-incubation pillar The Vanguard, and the Infinity programs – YNAP’s take on a long-term wide-angled sustainability strategy to mirror changes but also to step out in front and set the guardrails for an industry that does good. Speaking from a firmly locked-down London where life goes on uncertainly, the New York-raised executive talks about marrying purpose with progress and the need to use platforms for change.
How has this time of reflection over the past year made you consider where you want to take the company?
“People talk about a pause – I didn’t really experience a pause, however, what that time did was completely change the cadence and focus of what we were doing. From my side, it certainly wasn’t about doing less, but being even more thoughtful and considered about everything we do. On a personal note, I was in lockdown in the countryside, so what I really valued was looking up – I would always say ‘looking up’ instead of always ‘looking down’. I would have these days where we would cover everything: operations, brand relations, team development, all sorts, and then I’d go out the door and go for a walk. It sounds a bit clichéd, but having that fresh air, trees and nature around me helped me learn to digest, observe and absorb a bit more, rather than racing onto the next thing. In short, it’s really given me enormous perspective, both for the company and in my role on a personal level, on everything.”
Can you characterise in a nutshell why the Infinity program was introduced, and the aim of it?
“The first thing I would say is its mission and the values it represents are not new. Sustainability and brand inclusion have always been core to our values, and really important to our customers – particularly to the younger generation, but also customers across the board. It’s the reason why we launched Net Sustain, for example … On a parallel note, our company has been a longstanding champion of women – especially in technology, where women are really under-represented. There are a number of initiatives we’ve done, both in our community in the UK and Italy, to really further support women in tech. Through Porter, we have this incredible women’s franchise – our tagline used to be ‘Incredible fashion for incredible women’ – really bringing to light these wonderful stories of women all over the world.
Infinity is a 10-year strategy or public commitment connected to the UN’s Sustainable Development goals. Some of the focuses are on circularity – environmentally friendly solutions across the supply chain, looking at re-commerce, and care-and-repair products. A second strand would be really creating awareness among consumers regarding sustainability, and the third would be around nurturing future talent, through championing diversity and inclusivity … It’s using our reach and whatever influence we might have to help break down some of the barriers to entry [into the fashion industry].”
Net-A-Porter’s reach means you interact with women everywhere every day on a global scale. How much of a priority is sustainability really to them?
“Conversations about sustainability were obviously happening pre-pandemic, but [the topic] really reached its tipping point over the past year. Really, what we’ve seen is a broader reconnection to our health, wellbeing, our planet and how we’re going to come out the other side of this period, alongside more conscious and thoughtful purchasing. That’s probably more acute among gen Z, but we’re seeing it really across all customers. We’ve also been focused on craftsmanship, creative expression and self-confidence, and it’s presented an opportunity for the industry overall to maybe pivot a little bit with priorities. To come back to your question, people are becoming more educated – asking: ‘Can I shop and also uphold the core values of sustainability?’ The answer is ‘yes, absolutely’.”
Do you feel as an industry we should be trying to influence consumer behaviour, and do you think that companies like Net-A-Porter should have a hand in that?
“I absolutely do. Not so much a responsibility to preach or tell you what to do, but teaching you ways you can make more conscious choices. Firstly, it’s really demystifying sustainability – telling the customer how they can make a difference. Also, when you’re buying something, we don’t sell disposable fashion, it’s about longevity. If you’ve bought a beautiful piece, when the next season arrives, it’s not, ‘Ooh, new things!’, but about how you’re going to use that thing as a base for that beautiful piece you’re going to buy the following season … it’s about championing enduring style. We’re going to bring you new directions, new brands and
designers, but what we’re choosing are things that transcend fashion seasons. Really, this idea of quality, longevity and timelessness.”
So, you’re noticing a definite shift towards considered purchasing?
“We believe that fashion can coexist in pushing newness, and also a sustainable agenda. Sure, there are some trends, but when you really think about it, gone are the days when wearing something that was super-hot a couple of seasons ago is taboo. That’s why I look at these seasons as building blocks – even if you put them away, you don’t throw them away.
An outcome of this movement is the emergence of a new model. We just launched Alber Elbaz’s new label, AZ Factory, which was a wonderful project to work on, the product is fantastic. But I think this idea that it’s eschewing the traditional calendar – [the collections] are drops, made to suit what’s needed at any particular time. It’s still driven by desire and the joy of clothes and fashion, but it’s not slavishly like: ‘This is what you have to wear tomorrow’.”
We’ve spoken about The Vanguard before – it wasn’t always the role of a retailer to foster young talent and creativity. What do you think we can do better as an industry to keep nurturing new talent, especially in a difficult time for young designers?
“People-encouragement and mentoring is something I’m really passionate about and the business is passionate about. On a personal level, I try to be very generous with my time. In terms of our industry, access is so hard, and making yourself even a tiny bit available can make a huge difference to somebody. It’s a difficult time, and there’s never been more appetite for change and innovation. If I look at projects we’ve launched – The Vanguard being one, and Modern Artisans [a young artisan training initiative in partnership with HRH The Prince of Wales] being another – it’s about figuring out ways you can use what you do to inspire the customer, but simultaneously open up opportunity for emerging talent.”
A lot of young designers might be finding it tough and are possibly looking for reasons to endure and stay in the industry. Do you have any encouragement for those people?
“Do not give up – determination is really worth a lot. The period we’re in right now, while I appreciate there’s a lot of content out there, there are also so many platforms and ways in which you can reach people. I would also say never lose sight of who your customer is – ever. Customers have a lot of choice, and businesses have a lot of choice in what brands they sell, so what’s different about you? Make sure to be as vocal as you can about those things. Understand what the role and responsibility is for your brand, and what message you want to get out. This goes back to our conversation earlier – look up, look around and don’t be afraid.
There’s a lot of people out there who are busy, but generous with their time, so keep at it.”
Net-a-Porter has just turned 20, a huge milestone. In a time where we’re all hoping for optimism, what are you most excited about for the company’s future?
“For everyone, I’m most excited about a vaccine. I think that goes without saying. I’m excited for everyone getting out again – not just so their wifi works better! I mean leaving your immediate environment, getting out into the world again, exploring things firsthand, really letting your curiosity flourish and therefore your creativity, inspiration and ideas. I’m really excited for spring from a fashion perspective, seeing colour and print again. Really excited about the next generation of design talent, to see what Gabriela [Hearst] does at Chloé, which is imminent and incredibly exciting. Also seeing established designers do things in new ways – I talked about Alber [Elbaz], Stella [McCartney], and Gucci is forever doing things in new ways.
Everyone has learnt lessons [throughout 2020] about self, how to run a healthier business, how to create more relevant product and how to delight the customer. If you think about spring, we plant the bulbs during a really dark period and I’m excited to see everything come into bloom – if that doesn’t sound too corny.”