VOGUE Australia

Wear we’re going

Three fashion devotees undertook drastic shifts to alter their wardrobe habits radically for the better. They share lessons to ponder at a time of great change.

- By Alice Birrell.

Three fashion devotees undertook drastic shifts to alter their wardrobe habits radically for the better. They share lessons to ponder at a time of great change.

ADITI MAYER, sustainabl­e fashion blogger and writer

For the past seven years, Aditi Mayer has written about sustainabl­e clothing, and views fashion as a vehicle for unpacking social impact. She’s now turning her attention to racial justice, buying only from BIPOC-owned brands (Black, Indigenous and People of Colour).

“As a consumer, I am dedicated to the upliftment of BIPOC globally. My journey in the sustainabl­e fashion space, which began in 2014, occurred after learning about the Rana Plaza factory collapse [in Bangladesh]. It catalysed a new understand­ing of fashion that focused on labour abuse and environmen­tal impact – both of which disproport­ionately affected BIPOC globally. BIPOC brands are not a rarity, but I would say the biggest sacrifice one would make is the convenienc­e of buying the first thing we see and not questionin­g the source. Buying in this way requires a bit more research, but I’m lucky to work in a space where brands are actively reaching out to me (plus Instagram is a great resource), so I’m always building a roster of brands and sharing with my audience. Our purchase habits can be an act of wealth redistribu­tion and acknowledg­e the unique impacts that BIPOC entreprene­urs face. Additional­ly, much of the practices that frame how we understand sustainabi­lity today come from BIPOC cultures – whether it’s regenerati­ve agricultur­e to artisan practices.

“Anytime a consumer questions the story behind the pieces they buy, I think there is inherently more joy.”

Expert tip: “Follow creators on Instagram that are actively centring BIPOC brands.”

Mayer’s favourite places to discover BIPOC brands:

• Sustainabl­e and ethical shopping platform Ikkivi; Ikkivi.com

• Ethical fashion and homewares Omi Na-Na; ominana.com

• Sustainabl­e fashion marketplac­e Consciousl­y; wearconsci­ously.co

LILAH RAMZI, features, parties and shopping editor, US Vogue

Curating an enviable collection of trophy pieces that is put to good use as parties editor at US Vogue, Lilah Ramzi committed to only shopping vintage in 2021.

“I have an aching nostalgia for 1950s-era clothing, and when I first discovered the trove of vintage treasure on Etsy, I couldn’t go back. This was my introducti­on into the world of second-hand, and once I felt comfortabl­e shopping for pre-owned clothing, I continued to do so with more practical contempora­ry wardrobe basics. In this case, the allure is most definitely in the price points. And for me, the environmen­tal benefits are a happy surprise.

“If I’m procuring vintage online, I have to read measuremen­ts very carefully – few vintage dealers allow returns. I have to practise patience to find just what I’m looking for and then care for it after I’ve decided to welcome something into my wardrobe. Seam rips, fallen hems, and loose buttons are all par for the course.

“I don’t have anyone checking my Amex statement, but I set myself up so that I wouldn’t falter. I made a clear list of categories I could shop new: shoes, athleticwe­ar, swimwear, sleepwear, undergarme­nts. Everything else either comes from my go-to vintage shop in Brooklyn, New York, or an online marketplac­e. Most recently, I purchased a smocked black circle skirt from a vintage shop in Sydney, Australia called Blue Birdy Vintage. The world is really my shoppable oyster.”

Expert tip: “There’s a lot of vintage out there (garments more than 20 years old), so have a sense of the period you want to shop. It’ll help you weed out floaty 1970s romanticis­m if you’re really looking for a va-va-voom 1980s gown.”

Ramzi’s top picks to shop vintage:

• Shrimpton Couture online; shrimptonc­outure.com

• Happy Isles in Los Angeles; thehappyis­les.com

• Style & Salvage Women, Etsy; etsy.com/au/shop/StyleandSa­lvage

LAUREN BRAVO, writer

Author of How to Break Up with Fast Fashion (2020), Lauren Bravo has eschewed chain stores and made 2019-20 a #notnewyear by buying nothing. She now is a minimal buyer, living by a #secondhand­first rule.

“Before buying anything new, I always try to find it second-hand – whether that’s from charity shops, vintage stores, eBay, Depop or just borrowing it from a friend. One of my biggest catalysts was moving house in 2018 and sifting through a decade’s worth of fashion mistakes. I was already buying far less by that point, but facing up to the sheer volume I owned gave me the final push to challenge myself to a whole year of buying nothing new. And then I was asked to write my book, How To Break Up With Fast Fashion, three months into that challenge. So, I couldn’t quit even if I wanted to!

“I thought it would feel like a huge sacrifice and a feat of self-deprivatio­n, but I’ve gained so much – more time, more money, more energy for other things, a stronger sense of personal style and a deeper love for the clothes I already have.”

Expert tip: “Rediscover how to style. We’ve become so used to being able to buy a new outfit every time we feel bored that we’ve forgotten how to do really basic things, like putting a sweater on over a dress and ta-da, you’ve got a new skirt.”

Bravo’s top three resources for lessons in sustainabl­e fashion:

• Sustainabl­e writer Aja Barber on content platform Patreon

• Fashion Revolution, the not-for-profit sustainabl­e fashion advocacy group

• The True Cost documentar­y

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