Equally subversive, co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons talk Afua Hirsch through the cross-pollination process behind their new collection for Prada.
Equally subversive, equally unpredictable, equally attuned to the contradictions of the cultural moment, co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons talk Afua Hirsch through the cross-pollination process behind their new collection for Prada – modelled here by four of our most electrifying actors. Styled by Edward Enninful. Photographed by Rafael Pavarotti.
Miuccia Prada does not like collaborations. “I’ve been asked to do a collaboration since ages!” she exclaims, in heavily accented English. “They always seemed to be just about selling more – about clichés, banality, and not about ideas. I was never interested.”
She is sitting in her Milan office alongside her new counterpart, Prada co-creative director Raf Simons, as I count contradictions. Even without the presence of Simons here in the nerve centre of Prada HQ, however, it is clear to any devotee that what’s happened to the label is most definitely a collaboration: since February 2020, when the partnership was first announced – prompting great surprise and intrigue – the fingerprints of both designers have been stamped all over the Prada collections, as plain to see as the omnipresent triangular logo.
The pair has so far produced two women’s collections. Spring/summer ’21 (launched via a Covid-era live-streamed show last September) was a tightly curated series of minimalist silhouettes, structured skirts and playful fabrics. Among the wearable monochrome prints and clutched anoraks, the collection delivered a new Prada classic: a glamorous A-line skirt with an airline seatbelt waist – which somehow managed to be both Miuccia Prada, PhD, and sculptural showstopper Simons – irresistibly paired with irreverent punctured turtlenecks.
In February, the house revealed an autumn/winter ’21 collection – seen here on some of the new generation of screen actors – that offered an endless dialogue between looks that veered between psychedelic colour and optimistic sensuality, between defensive armour and purple, patterned platform boots.