Hot­house flow­ers

VOGUE Australia - - Vogue Mood -

Flo­rals in fash­ion – let us count the ways. But hear us out: bold and moody, these flo­rals are re­plete with sly as­sur­ances of abun­dance and lux­u­ri­ance. Re­sort is the sea­son that lasts the long­est on the re­tail floor, mak­ing the most of hol­i­day sea­son dress­ing, so, nat­u­rally, de­sign­ers look to their own time abroad. Tory Burch re­mem­bered vis­it­ing Round Hill in Ja­maica as a child – per­haps we can ex­pect an Aus­traliana theme col­lec­tion in due course, with her la­bel open­ing its first An­tipodean premises next year. Er­dem Mo­rali­oglu had stum­bled upon a pa­per-mak­ing store in Ky­oto while on a hol­i­day. The pa­per went on to in­spire the prints and colours for the Er­dem re­sort col­lec­tion, with anemones that bloomed over tea dresses. As an an­ti­dote to pre­con­cep­tions of sweet­ness and pret­ti­ness, these flow­ers are backed onto darker shades, mak­ing them even more dra­matic and strik­ing. It’s about ex­tract­ing the ex­tra­or­di­nary from the or­di­nary, too. At Alexan­der McQueen, what seemed to be a fab­ric printed with flow­ers was in fact hand-painted leather, taken from Bri­tish folk art. Christo­pher Kane sought to el­e­vate the com­mon pansy for his first re­sort run­way show. “The pansy seems so sim­ple, so ev­ery­day ... When I re­searched the pansy more, it took on a deeper mean­ing; it stands for thought­ful­ness and is ul­ti­mately a sym­bol of free­think­ing.” En­larged, the pan­sies en­veloped his mod­els in an em­brace. ZW

In New York. Veronika Heil­brun­ner flo­rals The mo­tif is ... dark

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