NOT MY TYPE
Normal, dry, oily, sensitive or combination: categorising skin into types has long been the norm, but, asks Remy Rippon, is it time to rethink?
Normal, dry, oily, sensitive or combination: categorising skin into types has long been the norm, but is it time to rethink?
Ibelieve skin is skin and it all has the same basic function,” says Tiffany Masterson, the founder of cult skincare line Drunk Elephant. It’s a grand statement, but it’s echoed by a growing number of beauty brands and experts who maintain that pigeonholing skin into specific types and only applying products that address that category isn’t the most efficient way to a flawless complexion.
“There is such a thing as truly sensitive skin, skin that produces a little more oil naturally and skin that produces less oil naturally, but that doesn’t mean we treat those ‘types’ differently,” says Masterson, who has led a movement toward products that only include ingredients that are beneficial to almost all complexions.
Skincare brands and experts alike are forgoing the typical categorisation of skin by type – oily, dry, combination or normal – and are instead concentrating on the overall health of the skin. They’ve discovered that when the natural function of our skin is disrupted by applying the wrong ingredients or by environmental factors (seasonality, sun exposure and pollution exposure), we’re more susceptible to concerns such as inflammation, breakouts, oiliness or dryness. But that doesn’t mean our skin is relegated to a particular categorical concern, nor should we populate our beauty cabinets with formulas labelled accordingly.
Kat Burki, whose eponymous, US-based skincare line is leading the intentional-ingredient crusade, prefers to focus on a healthy ‘baseline’, that is, treating all skin equally, and introducing treatment products to address flare-ups or concerns. “Oftentimes what you think is your skin type is really just reflecting the current issues your skin is dealing with, which will change,” says Burki. “We need to remember our skin is constantly renewing itself as our cells change; it is not one constant continuum.”
Of course, a core regimen won’t nix every issue, which is why a slew of new products aim to address a handful of problems. L’Oréal coined the term ‘multi-masking’ last year with the launch of its Insta-worthy Pure Clay Mask collection, which is designed to be applied simultaneously to different areas of the face, depending on the concern. Likewise, Aesop’s In Two Minds Facial Hydrator is thirstquenching with a matt finish for complexions that swing from oily to dry.
Active ingredients can also be necessary for certain areas of the face and a no-go for others. “For example, hydroxy acids are helpful for the oily areas such as the nose and chin, but can irritate sensitive areas such as the cheeks, where an antioxidant lipid would be more helpful in reducing sensitivity and dryness,” says Richard Parker, founder of homegrown skincare brand Rationale. “The skin is rarely uniform in terms of dryness, oiliness or sensitivity, so it’s often more helpful to choose a very gentle cleanser, then use specialised products for drier or breakout-prone zones,” says Parker.
Dermatologist Dr Natasha Cook says that the majority of patients she sees at her Darlinghurst clinic present with more than one problem, including dehydration, acne, pigmentation and sensitivity. “Most people have two to three of these issues,” she explains, noting that observing the skin too narrowly can be problematic. “Investing in products that are only for one skin type can exacerbate other issues.”
So if classifying by type is counterintuitive, how can we select the best formulas for our skin? Often the simplest methods prove the most effective. Cook recommends a gentle cleanser, a daily moisturiser, an exfoliant and UV protection. As Masterson attests, given the right care, our skin will do the rest: “The skin is much smarter than we are: it knows what to do, if allowed, so feeding it nourishing, supportive and protective ingredients is all we need to do.”