VOGUE Living Australia

Local ambitions

Creative director of Sydney Design Week, Stephen Todd delves into the thriving diversity of Australian design in the 21st century.

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Creative director of Sydney Design Week, Stephen Todd delves into the thriving diversity of Australian design in the 21st century

The lightbulb moment happened on November 10 2011 when, having recently returned to Australia after 20 years living abroad, I found myself at the launch of the first Broached Commission­s collection in a disused film facility in Sydney’s Surry Hills. Until that second, I’d been wondering what ‘Australian design’ might look like. And there was an answer: the work on show included a tea set made from lacquered kelp and kangaroo pelt, a lushly polished tallboy devised along the lines of rustic outback structures, and a towering tripodal floor lamp the legs, stem and head of which were covered in thousands of hand-dyed toothpicks to evoke the psychologi­cal carapace of convict women who managed to survive transporta­tion from Britain.

Deeply thoughtful, supremely crafted and responding to the specifics of history and place, Broached Commission­s has in its various iterations over the ensuing decade added gravitas to the accruing critical mass that is a nascent Australian design aesthetic.

That’s not to say that all Australian design is intellectu­ally or aesthetica­lly outré, yet it is characteri­sed by a certain edge: something awardwinni­ng designer Yasmine Ghoniem identifies in her own style as “arty-casual”. “As a country we’re very refined but not pretentiou­s, and when you mix that refinement with a certain Australian harshness you get this really great concoction,” she says.

For Richard Munao, director of Cult and founder of locally designed and manufactur­ed brand Nau, Australian design is marked by an “easy, unpretenti­ous” allure often reminiscen­t of the clean lines and honest materials of mid-century architectu­re across the nation. The Nau collection­s

— designed by Adam Goodrum, Tom Fereday and Zachary Hanna in Sydney, Kate Stokes and Adam Cornish in Melbourne, and Jack Flanagan in Perth — are manufactur­ed in New South Wales (timber and upholstery) and Victoria (metalwork).

That means that when, say, Hermès orders Goodrum’s Fat Tulip armchairs for its Tokyo and Osaka stores, fine Antipodean craftsmans­hip is being recognised not only on the internatio­nal stage but within the rarefied environs of one of the world’s most renowned leather goods houses. “The maturity of what’s being conceived and produced by Nau has made the brand evolve even quicker than I expected,” says Munao. “I’m quietly proud of where we’re at.”

Aidan Mawhinney, director of Living Edge, which imports Tom Dixon (UK), Vitra (Switzerlan­d) and Herman Miller (US) but also works with Sydney designers David Caon and Henry Wilson as well as Brisbane’s Alexander Lotersztai­n, sums up Australian design as simply “progressiv­e”. “I’ve kept an eye on the Australian designers showing in Milan in recent years, and they’re not underperfo­rming in any way,” says Mawhinney, who insists he’s intent on “supporting great global design, and it just so happens that a lot of that is coming from Australia these days”.

Until recently, designers across our nation of any stature would flock to Milan for Salon de Mobile in the hope of getting their self-funded prototypes in front of any of the hundreds of major brands based and/or showing there. Sometimes, they’d luck out and actually get an appointmen­t; mostly they talked their way into the endless roster of parties in the hope of schmoozing someone in the know.

“Australian designers are like mushrooms in a forest,” says Alberto Alessi, whose grandfathe­r Giovanni founded the namesake company in 1921. “At first you can see just one, but the more you look, the more you spot. There must be something that makes design there special.” ››

‹‹ And so in a lineup that rolls off the tongue like a libretto — Castiglion­i, Branzi, Dominioni, Botta — it’s easy to detect the twang of Antipodean talents like Newson, Goodrum, Kontouris and Cornish. Alessi is so convinced of the talent pool here that in 2014 the company launched the Alessi Design Prize, most recently held in conjunctio­n with Vogue Living.

Since Covid has grounded most internatio­nal travel (with the Milan fair cancelled last year), Australian­s have had to hunker down — and that might well prove to be a boom for the local design scene. Certainly the handful of galleries dealing in the burgeoning collectibl­e design sector have made good inroads recently.

Sally Dan-Cuthbert, an establishe­d art consultant with a private client list, establishe­d her “functional art” gallery in Sydney’s Rushcutter­s Bay in late 2019 and today represents some 20 designers — including Trent Jansen and Johnny Nargoodah, Ivana Taylor and Edward Waring — and almost the same number of visual artists.

Her design collectors “are a mix of people who are just understand­ing collectibl­e design and functional art and, like me, want to have pieces with a story and importantl­y an artist’s hand,” she says, noting her stable is of “Australian artists and designers who are of internatio­nal quality but who have remained local”.

In Melbourne, Tolarno Galleries held its first design exhibition in March last year of three hand-crafted straw marquetry pieces by Adam Goodrum and Arthur Seigneur, who collaborat­e under the banner of A&A. All three sold out, two to Sydney philanthro­pist Judith Neilson AM (for whom Goodrum is also designing several bespoke pieces).

Also in Melbourne, art dealer Sophie Gannon began exhibiting design in 2017 — the year of the inaugural Melbourne Design Week held under the auspices of the NGV (National Gallery of Victoria). Today her regular roster includes Melbourne creatives Danielle Brustman and Dale Hardiman, as well as Alice Springs-based Elliat Rich. “The market has become sophistica­ted very quickly,” says Gannon. “The label ‘art’ or ‘design’ can be made by the collector if they want to categorise it. But more and more people are just going with it and appreciati­ng the object for what it is.”

And more and more, they are appreciati­ng — and consuming — it onshore. “The local design community has always been very rich but it was under-recognised because there were limited opportunit­ies for expression,” says NGV director Tony Ellwood AM, who establishe­d the Department of Contempora­ry Design & Architectu­re in 2015, three years after taking up the reins. “I would come across these great Melbourne designers when I was abroad, and they’d tell me they’d had an opportunit­y to exhibit with a gallery in Paris or Vietnam or had been picked up by a store in New York. But they had no presence in their home city.”

As Melbourne Design Week goes from strength to strength, the Victorian government has plans for NGV Contempora­ry, a new gallery that will house the hundreds of design pieces acquired since 2017.

Meanwhile in New South Wales, the Powerhouse Museum — which has organised an annual Sydney design event for more than two decades — is reorientin­g the historical Ultimo space while forging ahead with a new setup in Parramatta designed by Moreau Kusunaki and Genton: the largest spend on cultural infrastruc­ture in the state since Jørn Utzon’s Sydney Opera House, completed in 1973.

“Design is central to how we think and what we do as an institutio­n,” says the museum’s chief executive Lisa Havilah. “The distinctiv­e scope of the Powerhouse allows us to consider design across all aspects of contempora­ry life, from our built environmen­t to fashion to engineerin­g. By working across existing design sectors and investing in new work, we not only document and amplify Australian design but contribute to its developmen­t.”

Today, 10 years after that initial lightbulb moment, it’s clear that Australian design is a vibrant constellat­ion of creators and brands, makers and manufactur­ers, independen­t galleries and important institutio­ns. All synapses firing, positively brilliant.

Sydney Design Week runs from September 14-20 at the Powerhouse Museum; maas.museum/powerhouse-museum

“Australian designers are like mushrooms in a forest. At first you can see just one, but the more you look, the more you spot” ALBERTO ALESSI

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 ??  ?? The Art of Light, an exhibition of creativity and community by Articolo, part of this year’s Melbourne Design Week.
The Art of Light, an exhibition of creativity and community by Articolo, part of this year’s Melbourne Design Week.

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