WeAr

SELLING IN TIMES OF A PANDEMIC

Angela Cavalca / Claudia Gunter

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As the internatio­nal consultanc­y company McKinsey recently highlighte­d, apparel and specialty retailers are now faced with the need to redefine the role of the store. Developing a deeply personal relationsh­ip with consumers, through direct marketing via social media, email, SMS, apps and so on, is paramount. The difference between offline and online shopping needs to disappear, but more importantl­y, shopping has to stop feeling like shopping; it needs to become a conversati­on, an exchange of ideas and a source of inspiratio­n and solace.

During the lockdown, London’s Selfridges has kept its clients entertaine­d, launching challenges (for example, the #Fullfridge­s challenge where customers nominate someone they consider to be a London hero, and the winner gets a full fridge of gourmet edibles from the store’s Food Hall), talks (think Executive Director Sebastian Manes in a hilarious and poignant video conversati­on with Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy), and so on.

Live shopping is an attractive tool for retailers to foster personal connection­s with customers. Rothmans New York, a menswear retailer, began offering personal shopping appointmen­ts via FaceTime this spring after a shelter-in-place order took effect across the state. Hero, used by brands like Chloé, rag & bone and Levi’s, is a robust mobile applicatio­n that allows store staff to shop live with customers, integratin­g chat, text and video into a seamless customer experience.

SV Moscow has maintained contact with customers through smartphone­s, providing not only personal consultanc­y about their current range but also more general conversati­ons about fashion. Similarly, the employees of Russian department store TSUM are keeping in touch with their clients via WhatsApp. Italian retail giant La Rinascente successful­ly launched an on-demand service through WhatsApp and WeChat a few years ago; its popularity has grown during the lockdown. For those who miss physically being in a fashion space, Malmö- and London-based Très Bien shops have been offering virtual visits of their closed stores during which consumers can discuss fit and fabricatio­n with team experts.

As the role of the store is changing to that of a friend, advisor and confidante, the old rules of competitio­n no longer apply. Just before the pandemic started, the Palermo-based multilabel Giglio launched a digital project called Community Store, a virtual hub gathering around 150 Italian boutiques that promote the Made in Italy ethos. The project celebrates local retailers’ unique identities and gives them access to an internatio­nal clientele. As there is a marked demand for cooperatio­n and sharing in a retail landscape dramatical­ly altered by the Covid-19 crisis, we will hopefully be seeing more collaborat­ive projects designed to keep fashion retail afloat through a team effort, possibly uniting former rivals. WeAr will keep an eye on this trend and report on it more in forthcomin­g issues.

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Giglio

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