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INCLUSION: EVERYONE’S WELCOME

MORE EXCLUSIVE FASHION LEADS TO MORE EXCLUSION. SHOULD RETAILERS STRIVE FOR GREATER DIVERSITY AND INCLUSION INSTEAD?

- Esther Stein

REPORT

The recent Black Lives Matter protests have pushed many companies to join the growing number of businesses focused on encouragin­g diversity and inclusion. But there is a long way to go, especially in the fashion industry. Age, body size, gender, ethnicity, religion, disability: many do not fit into the mold and feel excluded – either as potential customers, employees or both.

Fashion brands are under growing pressure to do more to promote diversity and inclusion. A study by McKinsey, ‘The State of Fashion 2020’, reached the same conclusion: 2020 is a watershed for ‘Inclusive Culture,’ where diverse races, genders, and sexual orientatio­ns get recognitio­n.

It pays to be diverse and inclusive: the recruitmen­t process is easier as prospectiv­e employees want to work in companies with a positive image, there is evidence that it boosts team performanc­e, and young consumers, in particular, want to be able to identify with a company’s values. Larger businesses now have diversity managers tasked with establishi­ng a more inclusive culture. Their role not only includes making the workforce more diverse – including top management – but improving a company’s public image, so that ill-considered marketing campaigns, such as the recent faux pas by several establishe­d labels, don’t turn into expensive PR crises.

US designer Tommy Hilfiger is leading by example. At the end of May, he created the ‘People’s Place’ program, which will support Black, Indigenous and People of Color (BIPOC) working within the fashion and creative industries, and has pledged 5 million USD in annual funding. What’s more, Tommy Hilfiger is already one of the few premium brands to produce a collection for wheelchair users and those with other disabiliti­es, which was launched back in 2017.

Offering fashion that caters to every target group might not be worthwhile for every retailer, but even small changes can have an impact. Incorporat­e versatile looks into your range, such as gender-neutral cuts. Offer customers an alteration service. Choose models that represent a diverse array of body types. And treat all your customers without prejudice; do not be swayed by first impression­s. This includes social media posts: before posting an image, be sure to check carefully whether it might offend somebody. If so, it’s not worth it – even for the most beautiful photo in the world.

What’s your company’s stance on inclusion? Perhaps your first reaction might be: “Discrimina­tion isn’t an issue.” If that’s true, well done! But usually it is not (quite) the case. But congratula­tions are still in order: you have already taken the first step towards greater integratio­n.

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Tommy Hilfiger

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