WHAT MAKES A FABRIC SUSTAINABLE?

REPORT

When talking about sustainable textiles, we often only consider the raw material. But what makes a fabric sustainable are all the inputs and outputs across its entire lifecycle. From the raw material, through the processes of the supply chain, up to the treatment of the waste, everything has a (sometimes positive!) impact, and the end consumer has a role to play, too, by the way s/he decides to maintain and dispose of the garment. This is why a product can be considered more or less sustainable over its entire lifecycle, or only at a stage. Brands and fabric manufacturers are at the foundation of this lifecycle.

Traceability helps a lot, but fabrics rarely have a complete fact sheet. That’s why it is best to rely on eco-certifications; they are the key for brands, retailers and consumers to understand how and where the product has a sustainable quality. Today, there are hundreds of eco-labels worldwide, so check what each one means when you find it on a product.

COTTON: GO ORGANIC, RECYCLED OR ETHICAL

Most cotton crops have become genetically modified (GMO) worldwide. Although it is engineered, a GMO still requires pesticides, fertilizers and a lot of water, and destroys biodiversity on its huge fields and in the surrounding area. Besides, machines and planes are necessary to spray these products over the crops. The answer is organic or recycled cotton; labels such as GOTS, EKO, OCS, IMO, GRS are widespread. Other labels such as BCI or BMP do not certify organic cotton but ensure better ways of farming. Some labels focus only on the carbon footprint and climate.

LINEN AND HEMP: INHERENTLY GOOD

Used for millennia, linen and hemp are always sustainable. They are good for the soil and do not require (or require very few) chemicals in the crops. The production of linen is limited: 85% of it comes from a small area in the North of France, Belgium and the Netherlands.

OTHER FIBERS

Uncommon natural fibers have appeared on the market, such as kapok, stinging nettle, pineapple, banana, mushroom and lotus, which can even imitate leather. What is interesting about them is that they are plant fibers. Some are even more sustainable, since they come from a by-product of agricultural waste. Manufactured in small quantities, they are dedicated to special luxury products.

Man-made fibers from natural polymers require industrial processes to be transformed: this is the case with viscose from wood pulp, bamboo, seaweed, coffee, squid, crab and others. It means that in terms of sustainability, you need to consider not only the raw material – e.g. whether it comes from undemanding crops or from a by-product of green waste – but also the process necessary to turn it into fiber: the use of water in closed loop, renewable energies and so on.

Artificial fibers such as acrylic, nylon and polyester come from oil and are synthetic polymers: there’s nothing natural at all, but they can become more sustainable when they are recycled – if they form a good proportion of the final fiber, that is. Retailers can also play a role by collecting used garments from their customers and recycling them.

In addition, some blends mix sustainable fibers with less sustainable ones or synthetics. The recycling of such materials is uncertain.

WOOL AND SILK: POTENTIALLY PROBLEMATIC

Since the dawn of human civilization, sheep, lamas, goats, rabbits, alpacas and others have had their fleece spun into wools. However, some all-time favorites, such as merino, cashmere and angora, have been criticized as they might pose a risk to the animals’ welfare depending on how they are bred and sheared. Labels such as AWA and Certified Humane mean the animals have been treated with dignity.

Real silk comes from the cocoon of the silkworm; 6,600 worms need to be boiled or gassed in their cocoon to make one kilo of silk, and butterflies are cruelly exploited to lay eggs. In some countries, children are employed to coil the thread and work without protection. Vegan and ethical alternatives to silk include common synthetic or man-made fibers such as viscose; recently, the market has seen new options made from orange peel or spider web. Aloe vera plant fibers produce an amazing, sustainable and cruelty-free silk.

DYEING AND FINISHING

It’s impossible to briefly summarize all the ins and outs of these processes that make them more or less sustainable, but every season we see great innovations and better practices. Once again, eco-labels do the job for you. Look out for GOTS, EU Ecolabel, Nordic Swan and other certifications to ensure no toxic chemicals are involved.

TRANSPARENCY

Simply remember that it is rare to have a 100% sustainable product. If the fabric manufacturer or the brand can provide certifications or at least communicate what they have done for sustainability, each step is worthy of attention! The most important thing is to give your clients transparent information – and to understand yourself what it means.