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DENIM: TIMELESS STYLE, CONTEMPORA­RY INDUSTRY

- BY OLAF SCHMIDT, VICE PRESIDENT TEXTILES & TEXTILE TECHNOLOGI­ES, MESSE FRANKFURT texpertise­network.messefrank­furt.com

Denim styles are among the most timeless classics in fashion. The transforma­tion of the fashion industry toward greater sustainabi­lity through technologi­cal innovation is taking the denim sector to a new level. Denim is increasing its focus on sustainabi­lity starting with the selection of the right !bers. While cotton is the most important raw material in the denim industry, it has a poor reputation, especially when it comes to cultivatio­n, a process around which there are many myths. That’s why the Transforme­rs Foundation is working with cotton expert Simon Ferrigno to investigat­e common statements that claim, for example, that around 20,000 liters of water are needed to produce a pair of jeans.

However, alongside cotton, recycled !bers (from post-consumer waste, pre-consumer remnants, cuttings from textile production or vintage fabrics) are increasing­ly being used in denim styles. Sustainabl­e denim brands like Kings of Indigo o"er 100% recycled styles, Mud Jeans recycle jeans to make new pieces, and ArmedAngel­s focus on circular designs that are easier to disassembl­e and recycle at the end of a garment’s life. Furthermor­e, with the revival of the patchwork trend, upcycling has made its way back onto fashion runways.

A concrete approach to greater sustainabi­lity is also cradle-to-cradle design. ISKO, one of the world’s leading denim producers, has only recently developed a technology that cleanly separates blended cotton and polyester fabrics. The recovered raw material from cotton can be used for a variety of new products from clothing to cosmetics. Antibacter­ial yarns, which promise longer freshness and thus contribute to water e$ciency by requiring less washing, also ensure a longer life and use for denim pieces. The industry is also moving forward in dyeing and !nishing: technology providers such as Tonello or Jeanologia, for example, are using ozone, nanobubble­s and lasers to produce stone wash and fading e"ects.

The topic of transparen­t supply chains is increasing­ly making its way into the industry. According to Lukas Pünder, Co-Founder and CEO of Retraced, a platform that fashion brands use to manage and communicat­e their supply chains and sustainabi­lity standards, “transparen­t communicat­ion of a product’s value chain and its impact must become key to consumers‘ shopping experience.” Retraced works with denim brands such as Dawn Denim, which is setting new standards for fairness and environmen­tal awareness in the denim industry with its own production facility in Saigon.

The internatio­nal trade fair Texprocess (June 21-24, 2022 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany) will showcase all technologi­es for processing denim: from design, cutting, sewing and dyeing to !nishing, textile logistics and e-commerce applicatio­ns. Additional­ly, trade visitors will !nd !bers, yarns and high-tech textiles at Techtextil, which is on at the same time. Neonyt (January 18 to 20, 2022 in Frankfurt am Main), with its accompanyi­ng Fashionsus­tain conference, o"ers denim collection­s from sustainabl­e brands, a separate area for apparel fabrics and expert discussion­s on sustainabi­lity.

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