THE PIPELINE I’M DREAMING OF
In 2015 I caught a wave which will stay with me forever. I was in the Maldives on a surf charter exploring its far-flung southern atolls with a small group of friends.
At one secret location the waves wrapped perfectly over a shallow coral reef and accelerated down the line in tune with your rising heartbeat.
Towards the end of each ride the water was so astonishingly clear the wave itself disappeared. Like a magic trick, like it was made of glass, like you were actually flying.
On that trip I learnt why the Maldives are described as 99 per cent water. It’s because the Maldives are 99 per cent water.
And not just any water. Maldivian water is a travel writer’s wet dream.
It sparkles like diamonds. Circles islands like a bejewelled necklace. It’s clearer than gin, greener than Helena Christensen’s eyes and bluer than the sky. Sometimes all in the same day.
I’ve been thinking a lot about far-flung tropical atolls lately. Wistfully, initially. But now that international travel is inching back, with excitement.
If Australia’s travel arrangement with New Zealand continues to hold, more bubbles are expected this year.
Guessing which countries will be included is just that, but hot favourites include Singapore, Japan, South Korea, Fiji, Vietnam and Thailand.
There have been reports that immigration officials have explored plans to open up to Singapore.
Hopefully this proves to be accurate because Singapore is the main transit route to the heavenly Maldives, a country which seems well placed to minimise Covid risks.
In fact, the Maldives have been open to international visitors since July 2020, and haven’t had to shut down since.
Part of the reason for the success is because all that ocean doubles as a perfect social distancing barrier.
The Maldives comprises 26 atolls spread over 300sq km, making it one of the most geographically dispersed countries in the world.
It also has a tiny population and seems to have good pandemic systems in place.
Tourist interactions with locals are relatively easy to minimise because tourism is already set up along these lines.
In general, after you arrive in Male airport you are shuttled straight to your resort or charter boat and you pretty much stay there.
It’s not a country you visit to explore craft markets, hit nightclubs or book a homestay.
That noted, they are still taking the virus seriously and have strict protocols in place at all hotels.
Temperature checks, hand sanitising, staff in masks. You absolutely need proof of a negative Covid test or of vaccination to enter.
To further boost tourist numbers, the Maldivian government has taken the unusual step of offering “Vaxations”. Visit, Vaccinate and Vacation – it’s perhaps the least sexy tourism slogan I’ve come across but it may have niche appeal for keen travellers who can’t access jabs in their own country.
Before “3V Tourism” is offered, the Maldives plan to have all of their own citizens inoculated. Which won’t be long based on current rates.
But back to that magic wave. It didn’t disappear. It kept propelling me further down the reef. Faster and faster. Shallower and shallower. Too fast to turn off. Too shallow to jump off. I kept going. Kept flying. My mind clear and alert. But already there was an idea forming subconsciously. Already I was planning my return.