Swim, walk, graze
Staying near the Noosa National Park offers magnificent swimming and hiking opportunities, with a plethora of restaurants a short walk away
The walking shoes are off and, for a moment, I wiggle my feet in the cool, clear water and just gaze about, soaking up the impossible beauty of this coastline. Then, splash. First ocean dip of the holiday and it feels so good.
We’re about 90 minutes into the Noosa National Park coastal walk and it’s one of those perfect days: a couple of fluffy clouds in an otherwise blue sky, temperature in the mid-20s, a gentle offshore breeze.
At every turn, every spectacular vantage point, the ocean commands attention, shimmering and sparkling in a multitude of blues.
We’ve watched the long-boarders at Tea Tree Bay, a pod of dolphins frolicking just out from Hells Gate and spied a koala in a tree along the way.
And as I put my shoes back on for the rest of the walk to Sunshine Beach, there’s a couple of nudists emerging from the dunes at Alexandria Bay.
Wouldn’t have seen that in Tassie. We’d been booked for a trip to the Apple Isle. But as is the case often these days, we had to implement Plan B.
Let’s go to Noosa for a week, we said. Let’s live it up. Let’s stay at a beachfront unit on Hastings St.
We checked the rates. Eek. Let’s find something a little closer to our budget.
How about somewhere at Little Cove? Given our revised holiday plans involved nothing more taxing than a daily swim and eating ourselves silly, it made sense.
Located closer to the national park than Hastings St, we could strike out in the mornings and plunge into the water at a host of glorious bays. And with a growing list of Noosa restaurants to try, the walk home up the boardwalk from Hastings St might help ensure our clothes still fit at the end of the week.
As we opened the door to our chosen accommodation, the final tinge of sadness about missing out on Cradle Mountain disappeared. The listing boasted “commanding ocean views” and there they are: a blue sweep of water, interrupted here and there by trees and some pesky rooftops, stretching north towards Double Island Point.
We dashed to the balcony. Tenalga is a 1960s-style, double-storey block of just six units and ours was on the upper level, with a stand of trees to the right and no balconies facing our way. The only living thing we could see was a butcherbird that flew straight over to sit on our railing.
Nothing about the interior says 1960s. The renovated unit is painted white throughout, with bleached wooden flooring. The island bench with an induction cooktop is situated so that you look out across the living room to the view as you potter about. The kitchen has all the utensils needed, and a washing machine and dryer hidden in a cupboard.
The main bedroom with a comfy queen-size bed also offers the ocean view, as well as a walk-in robe, airconditioning and a wall-mounted television. The second bedroom has two single beds.
There’s undercover parking which was handy, given we only used the car once in the week to drive to the popular Asian fusion restaurant, Sum Yung Guys.
It moved in May from Sunshine Beach to Noosaville and remains so popular, the only booking we could get three days out was at 5.30pm.
Our favourite dish was the blackened barra larb with nam jim jaew and sticky rice. A tip, however, if you are there at sunset and susceptible to midges: bring some repellent.
We ate silky handkerchief pasta in a marinara sauce at Locale, that sumptuously appointed Italian joint tucked up the end of Hastings St; braised beef short ribs at the trendy – and noisy – Bang Bang in the forecourt of the Sebel; and a mild and more-ish Keralan coconut fish curry at Pucca, located up Noosa Hill at Noosa Junction.
All enjoyable and the type of places you go for event dining, but you can live it up, savouring great flavours at places like Mr Drifter at the Junction for a fraction of the price.
Their beef rendang drifter roll with coleslaw in a flaky roti was so good we climbed the hill a second time to try the pork belly and chicken tikka versions.
The bar menu at Noosa Beach House, out the front of the Sofitel, was a revelation, too.
Half a kilo of mussels in a laksa-style broth with sourdough for $20. Bargain. We pulled up a white wicker chair in front of the wide open windows multiple times, grazing through the offerings and watching the passing parade on Hastings St.
Just behind the Sofitel is where the ferries come in, and for our last hoorah, we board one and tootle down the canal on a sunny day to Rickys River Bar and Restaurant for lunch.
The ferry will take you all the way to Noosa Marina but the first stop is at
Quamby Place, right out the front of Rickys, a light-filled, breezy establishment with an emphasis on seafood.
We sit inside, drinking in the view of the river – and a cheeky riesling. Or two. The local white fish, celeriac puree, leek, and mussel dish is a treat but the passionfruit souffle is the star of the meal.
Just after 4pm, we catch the second-last ferry back to Hastings St and cut through to the beach, just to sit and watch those waves roll in as the sun starts to dip.
Then it’s back along the boardwalk, past sun-kissed grommets heading down to Hastings St with their boards, and make the final ascent up the slightly steep hill to our unit and its commanding ocean views.