Aloha, Hawaii
Think Oahu and you conjure up images of the idyllic Waikiki beachfront. But venture outside the tourist mecca and there are gems to be found
‘Why are all those people taking photos of rocks” was the quiet comment from the back seat as we were driving along Oahu’s famous North Shore.
We had been circumnavigating Hawaii’s most popular island in our rented Jeep for most of the day, but curious to discover what was attracting crowds of people on the beach, we pulled over and were amazed to find the “rocks” were moving. More than a dozen green sea turtles were scattered across Laniakea Beach munching on sea grass at the waters’ edge in the fading afternoon sunlight. We had been hoping to see the giant reptiles during our stay in Hawaii but this encounter was stunning.
While Oahu might be famous for its Waikiki beachfront, some of the most amazing experiences of a stay on the tourist island lie outside of the tourist mecca.
Our first stop on an anticlockwise road trip around the island had been the imposing Diamond Head – an extinct volcano which looms over the southern end of Waikiki. You can drive directly into the base of the crater through a long tunnel and park at the visitor centre before putting on the hiking boots to tackle the arduous summit trail. While it starts flat the walk quickly begins to wind its way steeply along the inside of the ocean-facing crater wall with plenty of uneven sections and hundreds of thigh burning, near-vertical stairs. The rewards for reaching the viewing platform at the top though (accessed through a World War II era pill box) are truly amazing 360 degree views of the island and in particular Waikiki below.
After walking off the breakfast (Kona Cafe was the pick for morning coffee and delicious pastries) it was time to hit the waves and nearby Sandy Beach was perfect. Famous for its consistent shore break, the open, undeveloped beach was surprisingly quiet on the weekend we were there. Other beaches we stopped at on the east coast were equally tranquil with Waimanalo
Beach and the famous North Shore (home of the surfing competition) the pick.
With a little more adventure on our minds we next head to Kualoa Ranch on the northeastern side of the island. The terrain looks familiar – and for good reason – it is the setting for dozens of movies from Jurassic Park to Kong: Skull Island and Jumanji. The 1500ha property offers numerous activities with one of the most popular being the ATV Raptor self-drive tour (but there is also mountain biking, horse riding and the Malama Experience – a cultural “give back” tour where guest can spend a couple of hours working on the farm in traditional Hawaiian activities such as thatching roofs or harvesting taro).
On the two-hour Raptor tour you join a guided convoy of all-terrain vehicles through the working cattle station. And a word of warning: it really is all-terrain. It is wise to use the goggles and bandannas provided because the dirt and dust from the tracks gets everywhere.
The knowledgeable guides point out some of the often instantly recognisable movie vistas, but are also able to give a lesson in the Hawaiian cultural significance of some of the sites, including its signature rugged Ko’olua mountain range.
Much closer to Waikiki and definitely worth a day trip is Pearl Harbor – the site of the notorious Japanese attack on the US Pacific Fleet, which brought the might of America into World War II. The historical site is a 25-minute drive from Waikiki or an hour on the bus. Entry to the visitor centre and the USS Arizona Memorial is free, but it is very popular and booking online in advance ($1 per person) to secure a spot on the tour is highly recommended. The white memorial is on a pontoon in the harbour straddling the sunken wreck and visitors are ferried there in US Navy boats. The outline of the battleship is still clearly visible in the shallow water with several gun turrets rusting above the surface.
The site remains an official war grave and viewing the haunting wall of names at one end listing all 1177 sailors and marines who died on the ship in the surprise attack on December 7, 1941 is a moving experience and a reminder of the terrible cost of war.
Gaining a better perspective of what life was like on a massive World War II battleship is possible with a visit to the USS Missouri, which is anchored nearby at Ford Island. Although not present at Pearl Harbor during the attack which started the war in the Pacific, the battleship gained its place in history as the site of the signing of the armistice in Tokyo Bay at the end of the conflict in 1945. The ship, which saw active duty up until the Gulf War (and was where Cher filmed her If I Could Turn Back Time music video), has been preserved as a floating museum. The scale of the fighting machine can only be appreciated by winding through the labyrinth of mess halls, bunk rooms and gun emplacements above and below deck. The remains of a kamikaze plane attack (which caused little damage) and the site of the Japanese surrender are musts on a walk around.
Back in Waikiki, nature takes a backseat to highrises and retail therapy. But despite the crowds, there are delights to be found in and around the coastal neighbourhood.