ENCHANTING PUGLIA
HEADING TO ITALY FOR A EUROPEAN SUMMER? SKIP THE CROWDS ON THE AMALFI COAST AND HEAD TO THE PREVIOUSLY OVERLOOKED RURAL REGION OF PUGLIA, THE COUNTRY’S NEW DESTINATION DU JOUR
DO
WITH its coastline, baroque cities, restored masserias (fortified farmhouses), endless rows of ancient olive trees, rich history and hospitable people, the unspoiled Puglia is now a hot spot for travellers seeking authentic and immersive experiences. Located on the heel of Italy’s famous boot, this southern region has been ignored in favour of northern destinations. It is fast becoming Italy’s rising star, however.
Best explored by car, there’s a host of beautiful cities to visit, such as Alberobello, known as the “city of the trulli”, a magical UNESCO World Heritage-listed site famous for its 1500 conical-roofed trulli huts.
Visit the maze-like “White City” of Ostuni and stroll the streets of the Lecce, known as the Florence of the south, famous for its baroque architecture and magnificent 17th century churches. The scenic Salento is home to some of Italy’s best beaches including Porto Cesareo’s Punta Prosciutto and Pescoluse, a 5km sandy beach along the Ionian coast commonly referred to as the Maldives of Italy.
Don’t leave without a visit to the ancient southern Italian cave city of Matera, located on the border of Basilicata and Puglia, which was named the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Once a source of shame for the nation due to the poverty and squalid living conditions, Matera, one of the oldest continually inhabited settlements in the world, is composed of a network of caves, many of which are now sought after boutique accommodation.
EAT
Aside from being the home of the mozzarellalike burrata cheese, the locals are proud of their cucina povera – the food of the poor – a celebrated style of cooking that involves relying on fresh, local produce. Given Puglia has traditionally been an agricultural region, there’s an abundance of fresh produce and its long coastline and fishing tradition mean seafood features heavily on the menus in seaside restaurants. Needless to say, it’s easy to eat your way around the region.
Indulge in La Peschiera, outside of Monopoli on Puglia’s Adriatic Coast, or splash out on a once-in-a-lifetime experience at the exclusive Grotta Palazzese restaurant set in a natural cave in Polignano a Mare. Sandwiched between Monopoli and Ostuni, Osteria del Tempo Perso is also a must.
STAY
Masserias reign supreme in Puglia. There are a plethora of these beautifully restored farmhouse hotels such as Masseria Montenapoleone, a 15-room retreat in the heart of Puglia, which produces its own olive oil and has an underground cave suite. Less than a 10-minute drive from Ostuni, Masseria Moroseta is an upscale version set on five hectares of organic olive grove.
If staying in an authentic trullo appeals, Trullo Sofia is fusion of the traditional and contemporary and is an easy walk from Alberobello.
In Matera, Palazzo Gattini Luxury Hotel is a lavish cave hotel set within in an 18th-century palace in the city’s most exclusive area.