THE COLLAGEN DEBATE
The myths and facts behind this buzz ingredient
Collagen is one of the biggest beauty buzz words at the moment but there are still some questions: why we need more, how to up our intake, and is topical best? We get the lowdown from the experts to help us understand the basics of collagen as well as break down the myths (although controversial) on collagen supplements.
WHY DOES THE BODY PRODUCE COLLAGEN AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Collagen is a vital human protein that performs a variety of functions within the body. It strengthens our bones and makes up the connective tissue that gives structure to our tendons, ligaments and skin. “Most importantly to us skin nerds, collagen provides what I refer to as the scaffolding, which forms the structure of the skin, keeping it tight and plump,” says cosmetic chemist Terri Vinson, founder of Synergie Skin.
WHY DOES PRODUCTION STOP OR SLOW DOWN AS WE AGE?
From around the age of 25, women produce one per cent less collagen each year and this increases to about two per cent per year post-menopause. “Protein and dietary deficiencies, smoking, UVA/UVB/infrared sun damage, a high sugar intake and pollution can all work to deplete collagen stores or retard production,” says Vinson.
SO WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH COLLAGEN SUPPLEMENTS?
“This may be controversial but I’m perplexed by the current supplement craze,” says Vinson. “Collagen is basically a protein, and consuming more of it [through supplements] simply provides greater levels of protein, but in a more expensive way. I think high quality fish, beans and tofu will give the same results, as it’s all just protein that ends up as the same building blocks – amino acids – in our intestine, before being absorbed and used to create the different proteins needed for human function. Collagen is just one of those proteins.”
Dr Michele Squire, scientist and founder of skin coaching business Qr8 and prescription line Qr8 MediSkin, says it’s
still worth taking a collagen supplement but you need the right one. “Good collagen supplements contain tiny peptides two to four kilodaltons in size that are soluble, tasteless and bioactive,” she explains. “Scientific studies show they can cross the gut without being further digested, enter the bloodstream in large numbers and reach the skin.” Dr Squire advises that you “look for a hydrolysed, highly purified collagen from a sustainable source (like fish) with a high concentration and low molecular weight peptides for maximum absorption.
Anna Lahey, founder of Vida Glow, which produces ingestible collagen powder, adds that a hydrolysed marine collagen is best because the peptides are much smaller than collagen made from beef and pork, meaning its bioavailability is much higher.
IS IT IMPORTANT TO REPLACE IT?
It’s true that increasing collagen improves the overall look of the skin, but it’s also important to look at preventing collagen loss due to external factors. “Preserving the collagen you have left by focusing on a healthy diet with low sugar and high quality protein, and limiting exposure to sun, cigarette smoke and air pollution will help slow your collagen loss,” says Vinson.
IS IT REALLY THE ANTI-AGEING HERO IT’S MADE OUT TO BE?
Collagen is an important element of skin health, but as an ingredient in topical skincare, it’s a waste of time in Vinson’s opinion. Instead, look for ingredients that stimulate your skin’s own collagen production or reduce collagen destruction. “Integrate vitamin C [as L-ascorbic acid powder or ethyl ascorbic acid serum] into your routine to aid in collagen synthesis,” she says. “Vitamins A and B3 [niacinamide] are also great ingredients for promoting and protecting collagen, and let’s not ignore sunscreen either. So much of the ageing of our skin comes from environmental factors like harmful UVA and UVB. A good sunscreen is simply your insurance policy.”