Femininity in transition
The Belgian artist Peter Philips, Creative & Image Director of Dior Make-up since 2014, plays a major role in shaping the visual perception of femininity: through listening, expertise and enjoying his work.
Lips are usually the focus of make-up. Why is that so?
Peter Philips: Lips stand for sensuality. But over the decades this has changed: It is not only about what attracts men, but also creates a barrier. A woman wearing a perfectly drawn red lipstick attracts attention - she is seductive, attractive, but also intimidating. It’s a very fascinating concept how lipstick has evolved. It used to be all about being pretty and having nothing to say. Today, red lips mean: look at me and listen to what I have to say!
Your latest creation, the “Rouge Dior Forever Liquid”, also focuses on the lips. What is so special about it?
We have tried to achieve the ultimate: comfort and long life. Because when the pandemic started, we saw that women still wanted to wear make-up, but the mask made that difficult. Because makeup is not just something you see, it’s a feeling. Similar to wearing silk underwear under a T-shirt and jeans. The same goes for lipstick under the mask. You want to show yourself in all your glory in the rare moments you take it off, without worrying about the colour spreading all over your face.
What is the hallmark of Dior’s autumn/ winter look this year?
We have designed a collection that plays with something almost fantastic: two-tone pigments in beautiful autumnal shades. They have a lovely reflection, similar to bird feathers. That’s why I call the collection “Birds of Feathers” - a play on words that also reflects a sense of sisterhood. Because “Birds of Feathers” is also the name given to a gang of girlfriends who understand each other almost blindly - it’s a playful approach.
What is the origin of your inspiration?
With the last collection, it was the pigments and the storytelling. But in reality, it is all about listening. What do women want at the moment? So it’s a combination of what I hear and what new formulas are available to me.
What is the essence of the Dior Beauty look?
One of the things we really get right is not just how something looks, but what the products mean. With everything we’ve done and everything that’s coming, I can almost 100 per cent guarantee that we’ll be way ahead of everyone else in luxury brands in terms of how natural we are, how we use ingredients and how environmentally friendly we are. And that’s very contradictory in this industry that launches a new product collection every season. So in a way, you have to find the right balance and act responsibly.
Has the beauty image changed since the pandemic started?
It’s been a very interesting time. It’s almost as if the situation has forced us to rediscover a new aspect of it. I think it has brought a lot of things back into balance. People come out of this pandemic with a new vision of a make-up: “We can express ourselves if we want to. We don’t have to become slaves to a daily routine.”
What is the secret of your success?
It is this naive enthusiasm that keeps me going. And that is also the secret of my success. I don’t see it as a burden. I am not a slave to my work - I love what I do.
What are your visions for the future?
It’s crazy what has evolved in the 20, 25 years I’ve been in this business. Because the pleasure of make-up is to make mistakes - you play, you experiment. It’s a great thing because it’s just make-up. You just wipe it off, and the next day you do something else and make up for your mistake the day before - it’s just wonderful!
Actress Natalie Portman is the testimonial for the new “Rouge Dior Forever Liquid” by Dior.