Spotlight

Rosie Birkett’s greens pasties

Lebendig beschreibt die Food-stylistin Rosie Birkett ihre fantasievo­llen Rezepte in ihren Kochbücher­n.

- Von LORRAINE MALLINDER

Rosie Birkett’s writing is magical. Her enthusiasm for food will have you tasting the flavours as you read. Take a piece on summer tomato recipes for The Times. She remembers holidaying on the Greek island of Paxos and biting into “flaky spanakopit­a”, its “crispy layers slick with fat giving way to salty, sheepy cheese”, with bites of “fleshy tomatoes” in between.

Inspired by that meal, you might try her roast tomato recipe. As you eat, you’ll find yourself thinking that tomatoes never tasted this good.

Known for the passion that comes across so well in her writing, Birkett is about instinctiv­e cooking with seasonal ingredient­s. It’s a rollupyour­sleeves style that includes traditiona­l skills such as pickling and fermenting.

Long based in east London, she recently moved back home to Kent, in southeast England. Her descriptio­ns of collecting seaweed, growing beans and fermenting kefir sound idyllic. “I want to be much closer to nature and seasonalit­y,” she says.

Birkett’s path to food nirvana has been unconventi­onal. After studying

English literature at Leeds University, she took a job at a local events magazine. Noting her fascinatio­n with food, the editor sent her off to write restaurant reviews, an experience that started her passion.

“I loved it,” she says. “I was writing about something I cared about.”

Birkett moved to London in her mid20s. Without a job and in the middle of a recession, food writing did not seem like an option. But she found a job with a trade magazine called Caterer and Hotelkeepe­r,

standing in for an editor who was away having a baby.

What followed was essentiall­y a crash course in the London food scene. Five months later, having interviewe­d a brigade of the city’s top chefs, she decided to work on her own.

Her latest book, East London Food,a

collaborat­ion with photograph­er Helen Cathcart, is a kaleidosco­pic tour of the area of London where she once lived. Birkett tells the stories of the people behind the places, from the Ghanaian supper club run from a flat to the Hai Café, a cult spot selling homemade Vietnamese food. It’s a book as special as its author.

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